Dogs

[euqinimod]

Before You Chain Your Dog
Dogs on Chains, why its not a good idea...

Dogs who are chained run a much higher risk of biting and are more likely to be the dogs that run off and don't come back when called.



Why? Chaining a dog goes against its natural instincts. Dogs were not meant to be chained. Most become protective of the area around them and in some cases, down right mean, even to their owners. They feel confined, trapped and it drives them crazy. They are harder to train and some appear to be literally un-trainable when really they are just going stir crazy. Most chained dogs will take off on you any chance they can get off the chain. And why not? Coming back means they have to go back on the chain and they want to enjoy the freedom if even for a little while. Not all dogs will be biters and runners if chained, but all dogs would be happier, with a better temperament, if they were not chained.

One example of this is the story my neighbor told me about a Keeshond she had as a child. Her parents did not have much time for the dog and the kids were getting older and did not have very much interest in it. As a result the Keeshond ended up on a clothes-line run, chained up in the backyard. It got to the point were you could not go near the dog without it growling at you and trying to bite. After a while the parents decided it was not worth the liability. They feared the dog was going to eventually really hurt someone. They found the dog a new home and hoped for the best.

A few months later they received a phone call from the new owners. Fear shot through the mother as she answered the phone expecting to hear the dog had bitten someone. Instead they heard how nice and sweet the dog was. Friendly as can be, loves everyone. The new owners were calling to say just how happy they were and that they loved their new Keeshond. Turned out the new owners did not chain the dog. They were in a situation were the dog could be free to walk around the yard. For those who know the breed, you know that Keeshonden are not the type of dog to be mean or to bite. They love everyone and everything. It was the chain, lack of leadership, pack structure and exercise that drove the dog to this point. The good thing was it was reversible, the chain was taken away and the dog was placed in a new environment. The dog no longer felt the need to defend and protect, no longer felt trapped and confined.

Another case is an acquaintance that owned an English Bulldog. He had the dog tied up in the back yard. One day the dog got off of the chain. One of the neighbor kids tried to bring him home. When the boy grabbed his collar the dog bit the boy in the face. Why? The dog was confused. He was suddenly free and he did not know how to handle it. Going home meant back on the chain. The owner of the Bulldog had told the neighbor kids not to go near the dog if he ever got free and to come and get him instead. Once again, the English Bulldog is excellent with children and loves people, but even a Bulldog will go crazy tied up on a chain all day. In fact, English Bulldogs are one of the worst breeds to chain. They have a strong desire to be by your side. Chaining them all the time drives them Crazy. Confined, restricted and trapped, it is not in a dogs nature to be tied up.

I am not talking about the occasional time when you need to tie your dog up in the park for a little while. There will be times where you will need to tie your dog. I am talking about the Back Yard Dogs. The ones with the dog house and a chain. The ones that spend the majority of their time and life chained, sitting and waiting, with nothing else to do but wait and protect.

:doggie::doggie:

>>> www.dogbreedinfo.com

[euqinimod]

The Human Dog

We may dress him like a human, but we do not treat him like one.

http://www.dogbreedinfo.com/images20/BrunoBoxerPuppy16WeeksDressedUp.JPG (javascript:;)

The number one biggest mistake dog owners can make with their dogs is to treat them like humans. The human race is such a kind, compassionate species that we tend to look at our canine companions as little humans. When in reality, they are canines and have a very different thought process. This is what differentiates mankind from other species in pack societies; there must be a specific order, from the leader on down to the last follower. Everyone has a place. The leaders are the strength of the pack. The followers need the leader to guide them. This primal instinct keeps the pack secure and happy.

Dogs instinctually need rules they must follow, and limits to what they are allowed to do. When dogs live with humans, the humans become the dog's pack. For the relationship to succeed, humans must become the dogs pack leader. The mistake is made when the humans in the pack only give the dog love, and the other factors are overlooked. To a dog, constant affection without rules and limits goes against every grain in a dog's instinct, as affectionate love is a human trait, not a canine trait. Affection does not make dogs happy, satisfying their instincts make them happy. You need to provide a proper emotional stability in order to achieve this, and showing you have an orderly pack with rules to follow is what the dog needs. Giving your dog affection is important for the human, and enjoyed by the dog, but must be done at the correct time.

A dog is an animal and does not possess the same reasoning skills as humans. They are simple creatures with instincts, and limited emotions. They do not premeditate; do not plan ahead. They live for whatever is happening at the moment. When a human shares its affection with a dog who is in any other state of mind but a calm, submissive one, (for example aggression, obsession, shyness, skittishness, fear or hyper activeness and so on...) and you give them a hug or pat them on the head and tell them it is ok, it is comforting to the human, but feeds into that state of mind for the dog making it more intense. While a human feels they are comforting a dog, the dog sees it as the human being weak. If your dog has a traumatic experience and you show them affection during that time trying to comfort them, rather than letting them work it out in their own mind, you leave them stuck in that state of mind. Later when your dog faces this traumatic situation again, you then comfort the dog, intensifying the situation even more. You are creating the problem. Dogs do not see comfort and affection in the same way we humans see it.

On the same note: When a dog is constantly leaning on you, putting his paw on you, using his nose to make you pet them, and always feeling the need to be touching you in some way, this is not your dog loving you, it is your dog displaying dominate behaviors. In the dog world, space is respect. A dog that is constantly nudging you and leaning on you, is not only disrespecting you, they are being the alpha dog.

Here is a video clip that shows a perfect example of humans giving a dog affection at the wrong time. This is a result of many years of being treated like a human. The dog is terrified of the thunder and fireworks she hears outside. This dog is in a weak state of mind. The humans in this clip are comforting the dog in a way humans understand, but not in a way a dog can understand. The comfort means two different things to the human and the dog. The dog sees it as everyone around her being weaker than she is. For a dog to be in a weak state of mind, then be surrounded by pack members who are in an even weaker state of mind, well this really messes up a dogs psyche and intensifies their fear. Watch the clip. While watching keep in mind how the humans feel they are comforting, and how the dog's instincts do not see it that way. Keeshond being treated like a human.

http://www.dogbreedinfo.com/images20/BrunoBoxerPuppy16WeeksDressedUp1.jpg (javascript:;)

If you show weakness to your dog, the dog instinctually, in his own head, takes over the role of leader whether he wants the role or not, because there must be a strong leader and an order in a dog's pack. Humans often give the dog mixed leadership signals, which throws the dog off balance, confusing his psyche, causing many of the psychological/behavioral problems we see in dogs today. Mental tension and energy build up within the dog, which lead to many of your common canine misbehaviors. Eliminating in the house, obsessive behaviors, neurotic behaviors, chewing on themselves, being overly excited, barking excessively, whining, not following their owners commands, not coming when called, running off, getting into the trash, destroying things in the house, obsessively digging, chewing the furniture, tail chasing, scratching, aggression towards other dogs, animals, or humans, snapping, biting, growling, and becoming just plain old uncontrollable (just to name a few). You name it-- we can, more likely than not, trace your problem back to the way you treat your dog. In some cases it starts to appear the dog is just nuts, or psycho, and there is nothing one can do about it.

This is also the number one cause of separation anxiety. In a pack, the leader is allowed to leave, however, the followers never leave the leader. If your dog is instinctually seeing you as their follower and you leave them, it causes so much mental anguish that a dog often takes it out on your house or themselves.

:rythm:

>>www.dogbreedinfo.com

[euqinimod]

Designer Dogs
(Hybrid Dogs)



Designer Dog?? What the heck is a designer dog you ask?? A "designer" dog (as the media has labeled them) is a cross between two purebred dogs. A purebred dog is one that has been bred over many generations to breed true. Meaning each puppy that is born looks and has the same temperament and characteristics as one another. In most cases a standard is written and breeders must follow this written standard. Only dogs which make the written standard are to be bred. Purebred dogs are beneficial in that, when you buy a purebred dog you know what you are getting. You know how big your puppy will grow and you know basically what type of temperament and care the dog will need. You know the dogs limits, whether it is capable of agility, hunting, search and rescue, police work, herding, flock guardian, or just simply a companion dog. You have a pretty good idea if the dog will be good with your kids, you know if they will have a tendency to wander or if they will stick close to home. You have a pretty good idea if they will like strangers, or if they will fear them. When one breeds purebred dogs great care must be taken to insure the lines to not become too thin. Even with all the best DNA testing available, genetic problems can occur, however with the proper testing these problems can be greatly reduced. To give you a simple analogy, let's say there was a law passed that stated only people with red hair and green eyes with a high IQ could have children, with the end goal, everyone in the USA to be smart with red hair and green eyes. If this were to happen, as you can imagine, our gene pool would eventually become thin, and many genetic problems would occur. This is why it is very important to ask breeders breeding purebred dogs what types of genetic testing they perform.

http://www.dogbreedinfo.com/images14/BuggsHarley1.jpg (javascript:;)Harley, the Buggs (Boston Terrier / Pug mix)

What's the difference between a designer dog and a mutt? Generally, a mutt is of uncertain ancestry. A designer dog has documented purebred ancestry, and one knows for sure what it is. The ACHC is the leading registry for designer dogs.

So what's up with these hybrid, "designer" dogs? Are they healthier? Hybrid dogs can still have genetic problems because you are still crossing two first generation dogs, however the percentage of hybrid dogs with genetic problems is much lower than purebred dogs because the gene pool is mixed. Breeders who breed purebred to purebred creating a first generation hybrid believe in the heterosis effect and hybrid vigor. Vigor means, "Physical or mental strength, energy, or force." Unlike purebred dogs, when you adopt a hybrid, you do not know exactly what the temperament, size of the dog, or exact look of the dog will be.

When you breed two different types of purebred dogs together you can get any combination of any of the characteristics found in either breed. If you are stuck on a hybrid dog how do you know which one to choose? Read the temperament and care for both breeds in the cross and be prepared for any combination of the two. If everything about both breeds matches you and your families personality and lifestyle, than you can most likely assume this cross will work for you. If there is ANYTHING about either breed in the cross that you do not feel matches what you are looking for, avoid that cross. Do not assume or take the chance that only the good characteristics will emerge. You may be in for a big surprise and it is not fair to the puppy to chance that.

It is also important to be aware; not all of these designer hybrid dogs being bred are 50% purebred to 50% purebred. It is very common for breeders to breed multi-generation crosses. While a simple F1 generation cross is said to produce the most hybrid vigor in the dog and the further down the multi-generation chain, the more vigor is lost in the hybrid; there are some benefits to multi-generation crossing. If you want to greater your chances of certain traits, such as non-shedding, sometimes it is necessary to move further down the generation chain, risking less vigor.

To help you understand this concept we will use the Goldendoodle as an example. A Goldendoodle is a cross between the Golden Retriever and the Poodle (usually the Standard Poodle). In general we will call the first purebred "purebred-A", and the second "purebred-B". Note, the examples of the differences in coat only apply to the Goldendoodle hybrid, all other hybrids will vary in their own way depending on what is in the cross.

F1 = 1st generation puppy - 50% purebred-A and 50% purebred-B - for example, a Golden Retriever to Poodle cross, this is first generation, resulting in healthier offspring. In this particular Goldendoodle cross hair type can be smooth like a Golden, wirey look like a Irish wolfhound or Wavy/shaggy, they can shed or not shed, pups in the same litter can vary. This is not the best cross for people with severe allergies.

F1b = backcross puppy - 25% purebred-A and 75% purebred-B. For example, an F1 Goldendoodle and Poodle cross; this is Goldendoodle bred back to Poodle, Wavy Curly shaggy look doodle very consistent in coat types. F1b is the MOST likely of any to be non shedding and allergy friendly then ANY doodles (poodle crosses) and is the easiest coat to take care of.

F2 = second generation puppy - F1 hybrid crossed with an F1 hybrid - for example, an F1 Goldendoodle crossed with an F1 Goldendoodle. This combination you get the same percentage of purebred-A as purebred-B as you would an F1 hybrid. In the case of the Goldendoodle, they are more likely to shed.

F2b = second generation backcross puppy = F1 bred to a F1b (hybrid backcross)

F3 = F2 hybrid to F2 hybrid

Multi-generation = F3 or higher generation hybrid crossed with F3 or higher generation hybrid

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To sum things up
Purebred-A x Purebred-B = F1 Hybrid Dog

F1 x Purebred-A = F1b Hybrid Dog

F1 x F1 = F2 Hybrid Dog

F1 x F1b = F2b Hybrid Dog

F2 x F2 = F3 Hybrid Dog
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Dogs are not to be disposed of like old toasters when they do not perform as you wish. They are living creatures. Cross a Labrador with a Poodle (Labradoodle) and you may or may not get a dog that sheds. Most experienced breeders can give you a pretty good idea what characteristics in a pup will emerge as the puppy grows. For example, in the Labradoodle, some breeders are able to tell which coat the pup will have, the Poodle or the Labrador, but still, this cannot be guaranteed. Sometimes it is harder to tell what type of temperament the pup will take on, as some characteristics do not appear until the pup is older, past adopting age.

http://www.dogbreedinfo.com/images14/PomapooPomeranianMotherToyPoodleFatherzoe047.JPG (javascript:;)
Zoë, the Pomapoo = Pomeranian Mother/ Toy Poodle Father
http://googleads.g.doubleclick.net/pagead/imgad?id=CLqXyvCFyMmk9QEQrAIY7wEyCLF0Vs9ft5hA (javascript:;)
Zoë, the Pomapoo = Pomeranian Mother/ Toy Poodle Father
http://www.dogbreedinfo.com/images12/YorkiPooMaggie100_0364.JPG (javascript:;)
Maggie, the Yorkipoo (Yorkie / Poodle Cross) from Brazil at 18 months old.


>>http://www.dogbreedinfo.com/

[euqinimod]

Why You Need To Be "Top Dog"

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Why You Need To Be "Top Dog"



Dogs descended from wolves, and deep within the psyche of your dog lies instincts they have retained from their wild ancestors. In order to live with and communicate with your dog you need to understand why you must maintain Alpha position in the "pack."


Your dog depends on you for its survival. It has learned that it must cooperate with you through thousands of years of evolution and adaptation in human society. The first domestication by man was the wolf. About twelve thousand years ago we discovered that having a wolf as a "pet" was a great asset. They could hunt alongside us and they could guard us as we slept.

As the years went by, the wolf began to mutate into different breeds. Scientists are unsure exactly how the first breeds developed. There are several different theories that include natural mutations, climate, and environment. The breeds became more numerous and more specialized. That is how we ended up with groups such as herding, hunting, shepherding, guarding, and of course, companion and lap dogs.

Of all the animals that we have domesticated, only the dog has willingly allowed itself to accept the authority of man without constraint. But as I said, it still retains the instinct to test its position. Yes, even sweet little Lady, the Maltese lying at your feet, has the genes and instincts of the wolf.

Wolves live by rules and have a social structure. The entire pack cooperates under a single leader. Lines are clearly defined. The leader of the pack eats first, and then the rest of the pack can eat. When your dog growls at you when he is eating, he is saying "I am the leader, and you must wait."

If your dog has a growling problem, here are some "rules to live by" that may be of help to you.

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1. Never tolerate growling. This is a threat and it means your dog sees you as a subordinate meant to be dominated by him. Tell him No! Let him know it is not acceptable to EVER growl at you or your children. Make it clear that your children are the offspring of his Alpha leader (you) and that they are to be treated as Alpha "pups."



2. Do not let your dog walk through the door first. If your dog always goes ahead of you, you need to get your leash and open the door. When he rushes ahead you pull him back and tell him "No. Wait. " You walk in and then give him permission to come in. This will be easier and faster if you have someone help you.



3. Do not let your dog sleep in the same bed as you. This is a definite Alpha position. If you just can't be without your dog in the bed, at the very least you need to make sure he sleeps at the foot of the bed. A doggie bed on the floor beside you is your best bet for maintaining Alpha position. (this rule is for aggressive dogs or dogs showing signs they are forgetting their place... A pet that is well behaved and obedient can sleep next to you or your child).



4. Socialize, socialize, socialize. I cannot stress enough the importance of introducing your dog to different places and people. Find something to do with your dog. Join and agility or obedience class. Take your dog to the park. If you have a laid back dog or puppy share your time with the local nursing home. Volunteer with disability groups so children and adults with special needs can enjoy the non-judgmental love a dog or puppy can provide.



5. Do not let your dog ride in your lap in the car. Make him sit in his own seat or on the floor. It is unsafe for you and your dog. Buy him his own seat belt or safety booster or use a kennel. Some states will give you a ticket for being a distracted driver.



6. Do not baby your dog too much. He needs to learn to be a dog. Do not over-protect him. He needs to explore and learn to be independent. You do not want to raise a flighty, paranoid dog. When he acts afraid of something that he should not be afraid of, do not pick him up and ooh and ahh over him. Simply tell him it is okay, and show him the object, person, etc. Your confidence will make him a confident and dependable dog. If you feed his imaginary fears, he will become a snappy and untrustworthy dog. He may develop fear aggression. An example of fear aggression could be a dog that sits in its owner's lap and growls at people or other animals. If you pet him, and tell him "It's okay." You are really telling him this is the type of behavior you expect of him, and he will continue to do it because there is a reward attached to it. Tell him no and put him down off your lap. While some owners think it is sweet that their little lap dog is "protecting them," it is not. When a child reaches to pet the dog or hug Grandma it could bite them if it is allowed to get away with this antisocial behavior. This is a dog that has taken on Alpha position and you are a subordinate. I have seen so many children chastised when they get bitten, when it's the owner that is responsible. You will often hear people say "Now, you know Granny's dog doesn't like you to go near her. She is jealous, and protective. We have told you over and over not to do that." What a shame. And it could all be avoided if we would just take the time to learn canine behavior. As much as we would like to believe that they think like us, they do not.

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If you have a problem with your dog growling at you or another family member, you may want to try having the person your dog growls at the most be the only one to feed him. You want to make him sit to reinforce your position as the leader. He is learning that he depends on you and he must obey in order to eat. And if he growls after you set down the food, tell him no and take the food away. Tell him to sit again. This is how you will reinforce the "no growling rule.''

You must never tolerate growling because this will usually lead to biting. Not always, but it usually does. So you need to nip it in the bud as soon as possible. I want to make it clear we are not talking about puppy play growling. Only growling that is geared towards aggression growling. Puppies need to be able to be puppies.

http://www.dogbreedinfo.com/images4/TopDogCodieGrowl.jpg (javascript:;)

Do not play tug of war with a puppy. Play fetch and tell them to release the ball. Never be overly harsh with your dog. Use common sense.

When a dog is constantly leaning on you, putting his paw on you, or touching you in some way, this is not your dog loving you, it is your dog displaying dominate behaviors. In the dog world, space is respect. A dog who is constantly nudging you and leaning on you, is not only disrespecting you, they are being the alpha dog. You are the one who must start and end touching and affection. Affection should only be given when the dog is being calm and submissive. Never when the dog is excited, anxious, scared, nervous etc... or you will be reinforcing that state in the dog.

One last thing... spend time with your dog. Train him. Be calm, assertive and provide rules and boundaries your dog must follow. When you provide all of those things, play with him and love him up. Just as a child looks to his parents for guidance and boundaries, so does your dog. Sometimes we have to use tough love, but in the long run, you and your dog will be happier if you maintain the Alpha role.

>>>www.dogbreedinfo.com:thatsit:

[euqinimod]

http://www.dogbreedinfo.com/images4/Readykidss.jpg (javascript:;)Charwitzes a Shih Tzu and Buster a Brown Boston Terrier

A dog will do his best to please you and keep you smiling. He will curl up with you when you are feeling down or need some serious relaxation. He won't hold your mistakes against you or prejudge you for your looks, faults or lack of know-how. He'll be your unconditional friend and will play ball with you as long as you wish. He'll forgive you for all your mistakes, never holding them against you later. Sleeping at your feet and loving to please you, he will enjoy just spending time with you. He'll do his best to protect you, because you will be his master.

However, a dog also relies on you for everything- from his food, water, shelter, exercise, grooming, to his companionship, training, veterinary care and protection. Know what you are getting into. Are you prepared to spend the next 10-15 years of your life taking care of your dog? That is about how long your dog will live. Can you afford the added expense of a dog? When you get a dog, it is a life long commitment, and should not be treated like a piece of furniture that you can just "get rid of" when you get tired of it. After all, this dog will be part of your family. Would you get rid of your children because you were tired of them wetting their beds? Are you prepared to accept the fact that dogs are not little humans and invest some time into learning how to properly treat your dog in order to keep him or her balanced? Before you bring a dog into your home, think long and hard. Are you prepared for the responsibility?

The decision to get a dog needs to be carefully thought out. Do you honestly have the time to take care of a dog? What kind of dog should you get? Some people think a dog is a dog. I hear them say they don't care what breed of dog they get. There are many different breeds with many different personalities and needs. Honestly think about it and do your homework. Think about your family as it is right now, and how it will be in the future.

Every family has its own needs, schedule, personality, medical problems, space and time limitations. If you take a good hard look at your family's situation, you can match a dog that will fit into your lives nicely and not just make things more awkward and difficult.

Is anyone in your family allergic to dog hair? Are you bothered by hair on everything from your clothes to your toast? Some breeds are heavy shedders, while others hardly shed at all. Do you have children? Are you going to have children in the next 10-15 years? Do you have friends who visit your home who have children. Some dogs are excellent with children and would be their best friend. Some are only good with children when they are raised with them from puppyhood, while others are very sensitive and may bite your child if they are pestered by him or her. Do you mind holes being dug in your yard? Some dogs like to dig, while others are less likely to dig.

Do you mind hearing a dog bark all the time? Some dogs love to bark and do it all the time, while others are more quiet, barking only when necessary. Do you mind if your dog has a tendency to wander away from home, or would you rather have a dog that would be more likely to stick close to home? Some dogs like to roam. It is in their nature, while others have a strong instinct to stick close to home. Some dogs will kill your cat, while others will be your cat's best friend. Do you have time to exercise your dog?


All dogs, regardless of breed, size or energy level need to be taken on a daily pack walk. Within each and every litter there are pups born with different energy and dominancy levels. You need to choose a dog whose energy level matches or is lower than your own. If your family is not very active, do not choose a pup with a higher energy level. If you are a laid back family, do not choose a pup with a higher dominancy level. The degree of exercise varies. Some dogs need daily vigorous exercise and you would need to take them out every day for a run and a nice long walk, while others will get enough exercise with a shorter walk and by running around the inside of your house. Some dogs need a job to do or they will become restless, bored, very destructive, and unruly. Other dogs will settle for just a short walk. Some can be highly obedience-trained, while others cannot.

Get the point? All dogs are different, and all families are different. Find a dog that fits well into your family, so you and your dog can live in harmony.

While it is important to choose the correct breed for your families lifestyle, it is even more important to understand a dog is a canine, not a human and treat him accordingly. For a clear understanding into a dogs brain check out Cesar Millan (The Dog Whisperer). You will find that any dog can be your worst nightmare, or your best investment, it all depends on the owner and their understanding of the canine and their willingness to give the dog what he truly needs. Cesar is an excellent guide to communicating with, understanding, and controlling your dog.

It's your choice. Do your homework. Research the different kinds of breeds and take a long hard look at your life and don't forget, that cute little puppy does grow up to be an adult dog. Never adopt a puppy, or adult dog solely on looks. If you are looking to adopt a dog, don't forget to visit our Rescue section. There are many great rescue groups and organizations listed who have wonderful homeless dogs, just waiting for someone like you to take them home and love them.

>>>www.dogbreedinfo.com:BOWL:

[euqinimod]

Establishing and Keeping Alpha Position
Letting your dog know you are the boss
(Top Dog)



Below are a list of rules every dog owner should follow to ensure your dog knows his place in your human pack. If your dog guards his food, or growls at humans in the family, and especially if you own a wolf hybrid, these rules should be strictly followed. Dogs need to have a clear place in their pack. A dog lacking in this clear order is an unhappy dog.

Sometimes, a dog might not be showing signs of aggression, however the dog is suddenly showing signs of separation anxiety, such as destructive behaviors when you leave the house. A dog who steals food from human hands has no respect for the human, and therefore do not see them as pack leader. A dog who questions his place in the household pack can sometimes cause him to suddenly display destructive behaviors, as the dog is confused and taking his anxiety out on your house.

A dog who knows his place in his human pack is a happy dog. A dog who does not is a confused dog and can exhibit many unwanted behaviors because of it.



1. The number one way to communicate to a dog that you are his pack leader is to take him for a walk. Not the type of walk most humans take their dogs on but a pack walk where the dog is made to heel beside or behind the human who is holding the lead. This is most important for all dogs, as in a dog's mind, the leader always leads the way. A dog must not be allowed to sniff or eliminate anywhere he wishes, but where you allow him. One marking against a tree is enough for male dogs. The dog should be concentrating on following the human, not worried about leading the way. This pack type walk should be done daily. Not only will this release built up energy, but it will satisfy the dog's instinct to migrate, which all dogs possess. Dog's who have excess energy bottled up inside them and who do not have their migration instinct met will develop various instability issues that most people mistake for being breed traits.

2. All humans must eat Before the dogs, as the leader always eats first. When you give your dog its food eat a small snack first while he is watching, lay the snack near the dogs food so that he thinks you are eating out of his bowl (the leader always eats first).

3. No table scraps should be fed to the dogs during a meal.

4. Feedings must be at a scheduled time. (no self feeding dog food dispensers should be used, as this allows The Dog to Choose when he eats.)

5. Humans must not let the dog go through any doorways first. Or up or down the stairs first. Dogs must always go through the doorways or up and down stairs After the humans, as the leader of the pack always goes first. If the dog does not stay behind the humans, the dog must be told to "stay" and given the command to "come" after all humans have passed through. (Read Training to find out the necessary basic commands all dogs should know. These commands are vital in the communication between you and your dog and should always be taught.)

6. When you have left the house or the room, even for a minute and come back in the room, ignore the dog for a few minutes.

7. A simple obedience command such as “Sit” should be given before any pleasurable interaction with the dog. (i.e. play session, petting, feeding or a walk etc…) The children should give the dogs commands at least once a day and reward with a treat when the command is followed. A simple “Sit” will do. No treat should be awarded if the dog does not follow the command. Show your dog he does not get anything for free. His food, water, treats, even praise/love have to be earned by doing something. Even something as little as sit, come, or making him wait for the treat while you hold it in front of him. Make sure the dog takes the treat from your hands gently. Do not tolerate a mouthy dog.

8. You should not lay on the floor to watch TV when the dog is around and no one should roll around the floor playing with the dogs, as a human should never put himself in an equal or lesser height position than the dog.

9. You are the one who greets newcomers first, the dog is the last who gets attention (the pack leader is the one who greets newcomers and lets the rest know when it is safe to greet the newcomer)

10. If a dog is laying in your path, do not walk around the dog, either make the dog move or step over the dog.

11. During the time you are establishing your higher pack position, no hugs should be given to the dog by you, as a dominant dog may consider this a challenge of power.

12. If you establish eye contact with the dog, the dog must avert his gaze first. If the human averts first this reinforces the dogs higher power position. Tell the children Not to have staring contest with the dog, as if they avert or blink first, it will only reinforce, in the dogs mind, that He is Top Dog.

13. Ideally dogs should not sleep in your bed. In the dog world the most comfortable place to sleep is reserved for the higher members of the pack. If a dog is allowed to sleep on the bed, the dog must be invited up and not be allowed to push the humans out of their way. Making them sleep at the foot of the bed rather then for example on your pillow is best.

14. Dogs must never be allowed to mouth or bite anyone at any time, including in play.

15. Any attention given to the dog, including petting should be given when the Human decides attention is to be given (absolutely No Petting when the dog nudges or paws you or your hand. This would be letting the dog decide and reinforcing, in his mind, that he is higher on the scale than the human.)

16. Games of fetch or play with toys must be Started and Ended by the Human.

17. Very dominate dogs who have a problem with growling should not be allowed to lie on your furniture, as the leader of the pack always gets the most comfortable spot. Dogs belong on the floor. If you do decide to allow your dog on the furniture, you must be the one who decides when he is allowed up and you must be the one who decides when he is to get off, by inviting him and telling him to get down.

18. No tug-of-war , as this is a game of power and you may lose the game giving the dog a reinforcement (in the dog's mind) of top dog.

19. Dogs need to be taught a “Drop it” or release command. Any objects the dog has in his possession should be able to be taken away by all humans.

20. Dogs own no possessions, everything belongs to the humans. They are all on "loan" from the human family. You should be able to handle or remove any item at all times from the dog with no problems from the dog. Even if you are taking a chicken bone out of the dog's mouth.

21. Dogs should not be allowed to pull on the leash. When they do this they are leading the way and it is the humans that need to lead the way and show they're higher up in the pack order. (In the wild, the leader of the pack always leads the way; the leader leads the hunt.)

22. When you put his food dish down, he must wait until you give the "OK" to eat it. Place his food on the ground and tell him to wait. If he darts at the food, block him with your body. You can point at him and tell him, "No, Wait" however do not speak much. Dogs are, for the most part, silent communicators. They feel one another's energy and your dog can feel yours. Yes, your dog can read your emotions. So stand tall and think "Big" and stay confident. do not be nervous, your dog will sense this and assume you as weak. It is this weakness that triggers a dog to try and take over (for the good of the pack, the pack needs a strong leader). Give the dog a command before giving them their food. If a dog does not follow the command (i.e. to sit), he does not eat. Try again in about 20 minutes or longer. Repeat this until the dog listens to the command. When your dog calms down and waits patiently, (ears set back, head lowered even slightly, laying down is good if he is relaxed with his ears back, No signs of growling on his face) invite him to eat his food. The people in the family the dog growls at should feed the dog the majority of the time.

23. Small dogs or puppies who demand to be picked up or put down should Not get what they want until they sit or do another acceptable quiet behavior. They should not be put down unless they are settled quietly in your arms.

24. Dogs should Never be left unsupervised with children or Anyone who cannot maintain leadership over the dog.

25. To reinforce your position even more, you can make your dog lie down and stay there for 20 to 30 minutes a day. Tell him to lie down, then tell him to stay. If he tries to get up, correct him.

26. Last but certainly not least... when you are around your dog avoid emotions such as fear, anxiety, harshness or nervousness. Your dog can sense these emotions and will see you as weak. This will escalate your problem as your dog feels an even stronger need to be your leader. Think Big and Powerful and be calm, assertive, and consistent. Remember, there is no hiding our emotions from our dogs. They can in a sense, read our minds, in reading our emotions. This energy is the universal language of animals. Talk less, using more body language. Picture yourself, in your own mind as big, powerful and very sure of yourself. Pull your shoulders back and stand up straight. Your dog will feel this. This is your number one resource when it comes to communicating with your dog. Your dog will be happy and secure knowing he has a strong pack leader to care for him.



By incorporating all these behaviors in his normal day your dog will realize that you the human are alpha over him and he is beneath you. Obedience exercises and classes are great and very useful, however, obedience training alone does not address pack behavior problems.


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Training Your New Puppy or Dog



It is important to start training your new puppy as soon as you bring them home. Training can be done yourself or a professional can be hired. Local dog training classes are often available. Ask your veterinarian to recommend a trainer or look in your local newspaper for a trainer in your area.

There are two types of training: behavioral, and obedience.

Behavioral training prevents and or corrects bad habits that your puppy or dog may develop or already has developed. Jumping, car chasing, begging, climbing on furniture, and chewing are just a few. It is very important to be consistent during the training process. For example, do not let your puppy on the couch unless you are planning to always allow them. This will confuse them, causing problems. Taking the time to learn dog psychology and satisfying the dog's natural instincts along with proper exercise will help you communicate to your dog and can mean the difference between success and failure.

Obedience training sessions should be frequent but short to prevent your dog from becoming bored: ten to fifteen minute sessions, two or three times a day will be sufficient.

Tip: training your dog right before meals will help them associate their meal with a reward for the training and also make them more interested in the food treat you use in your training session.

Before giving a word command to your dog, speak its name to get its attention; then speak a one-word command such as "stay," "sit," "come" or "heel." Do not get impatient. You will probably have to repeat the command many times. Never use negative reinforcement. Do not call your dog to come to you for punishment because this will teach your dog not to come on command. Be sure to keep any frustration out of the tone of your voice. If you feel yourself becoming frustrated, take a break. Your dog can sense this and will start to associate training with your unhappiness. You can not hide your frustration from a dog. You cannot pretend. Dogs can feel human emotion, so stay relaxed, firm, and confident.

Some of the specific commands are "sit," "stay," "come," "down" and "heel." When speaking the commands, say them loudly and clearly, repeating them often. The dog may have to hear the commands over and over, but will soon begin to associate the word with its meaning. Always remember to praise your dog when they respond correctly. This will encourage your dog to perform correctly the next time. You may either use food, or affection such as a belly rub, a pet or verbal praise as the reward or both.



Tips on teaching your dog or puppy to sit:


When teaching your dog to sit, hold your hand high over their head with a reward in it. Your dog will look up at the reward. Use your other hand to gently push the dog's behind into a sitting position, and say in a clear, firm tone, "SIT" while still holding the reward in the air above the dog's head. When your dog sits, give them the treat and verbally praise them. Do not allow your dog to jump up and grab the reward out of your hand. Say firmly, "NO." You will have to repeat this over and over. Eventually your dog will associate sitting with the reward and will sit without your assistance. Remember the training sessions should be short but frequent. Repeat this method periodically throughout the day. If you get frustrated, stop and try again later.

Tips on teaching your dog to lie down:


After successfully teaching your dog to sit, stay, and come - without assistance, it's time to teach them to lie down on command. Tell your dog to sit. Show them the reward you have in your hand. Hold the reward up and then bring it down in front of the dog to the floor and say "DOWN" in a firm clear voice. Only give the reward if they lay down to reach it. Do not give it to them if they stand up to reach the reward. Again repeat this throughout the day as much as possible, keeping sessions short and frequent.

Each training session should include any new commands you are trying as well as old commands the dog has already learned - so the dog does not forget them. Always be consistent. Important: If you become frustrated, stop and try again later.





Staying positive and taking the time to play with your dog during sessions will teach them that following commands is happy and rewarding.



Note: A puppy / dog who goes on daily pack walks is easier to train as they will be calmer and less anxious.
Tips on teaching your dog or puppy to stay and come:


It is usually best to teach your dog to sit before you teach them to stay. The reason is: your dog will have an easier time staying if they are in a sitting position. After your dog has the sitting command down, and has been correctly sitting for a couple of days without assistance, it is time to teach your dog to stay and come. Tell your dog to sit. Have two rewards in your hand. After your dog sits, give them one of the rewards.

Hold your empty hand up like a stop sign in front of your dog's face and back up slowly saying "STAY" clearly and firmly. Be sure to stay facing your dog and remain looking at them. Go a short distance and say with some enthusiasm, "COME." When your dog comes to you reward them again. If your dog gets up and runs to you without the "COME" command, say "NO" and start all over again. Remember to verbally praise them as well as provide a food reward when they get a new command correct. Start off only backing up a short distance from your dog. As they begin to understand what you want of them, you may back farther away and eventually you may be able to walk out of sight and have your dog still stay until they hear the "COME" command. Remember to be consistent and stop if you become frustrated. Your dog can sense frustration and it will confuse them. They want to please you. If they sense your frustration, they may learn to dislike the training sessions as they associate them with a negative feeling coming from you.



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Guarding Furniture

How can I stop my dog from guarding furniture? Why does my dog do this?



When a dog jumps up on a couch, chair, table, stairs (whatever it may be) and growls when you come near him, touch him, or protest when you ask him to get down, the dog is telling you he owns it. This behavior must be stopped or this will most certainly lead to biting.

First, lets look at what it means to the dog. When a dog behaves like this, he is telling you he owns that particular spot. Dominant dogs will often seek out high places to watch over their domain, claiming the place as his own. He's communicating with you, that he is the boss and he is demanding you respect his space. As anyone approaches they must ask permission to be there. The dog will growl, and eventually snap and bite, in order to correct YOU. He is telling you, as his subordinate, to leave the area, or to get his permission to be there. First comes growling, and later will surely come biting, because this is how a dominate dog communicates; they set a "Rule". Your dog is not doing this because he is mean, he is doing this because he wants and/or thinks, he is the boss of your house. The top dog owns everything and makes the rules. This is a primal instinct hardwired into your dogs brain. It is because of this instinctual behavior, when one owns a dog, the dog owns nothing. Everything must belong to the human, from the furniture to his toys to his food bowl. You, as his leader, will make all of the decisions. You, as the human, own the furniture, and you as the human, will decide who can and cannot sit on it, and when.

When your dog, at his own free will, jumps up on a couch, chair, table, stairs, whatever he is claiming as his own; you are reinforcing his dominant state of mind. With every growl, snap or bite, the dog gets mentally stronger and more determined to KEEP his high spot and his high status in your family's hierarchy. The dog feels as if it is his throne. A status such as this cannot just be given to someone, they have to earn that seat and your dog is, in his mind, earning it. The dog is telling you he thinks the furniture is HIS and you'd better keep your place UNDER HIM. The dog needs to be shown humans are his pack leaders. He may have access to no chair, no couch, no furniture until all of his dominance issues are dealt with.

You and all other humans in the house must claim this spot as your own, making humans the pack leader. Give the dog another spot in the room to lay that is his own, such as a dog bed, blanket, pillow, open box or an open crate. Every time the dog walks in the room give him a command "Go lie down", and direct him to his spot. Make sure the spot you are directing him to is lower (height wise) than the area he was previously claiming.

Some very dominate dogs, particularly the little dogs, just can't handle being on furniture without considering that as proof of their ownership of the space. Even if you have more than one dog, you need to decide which dogs can have the privilege of being up on the furniture and which ones it mentally empowers. Just as you would not treat all your children the same way, if one was minding you and the other was not, do not treat all your dogs the same. If one of your dogs is not obeying, or is showing signs of dominance, you need to take control.

You do not necessarily have to ban your dog from the couch for life, but you must communicate to your dog when he is allowed to come up onto YOUR couch and when he cannot. If your dog, however, is already displaying this alpha role of protecting, you must ban him until he accepts you as his pack leader. After he has learned that the couch is YOURS, not HIS, then you can start inviting him back up. The most important thing to remember is, you decide when he is allowed up and you decide when he is to get off, by inviting him and telling him to get down. You make the call, not your dog. Everything is on your terms, not his. If we humans want to live with an animal, we need to communicate like an animal.

Most dogs do not WANT to be the boss. There are very few dogs who actually want the alpha position, as the majority of puppies born, are not born leaders. Most are born followers. However even a born follower can assume the roll of alpha dog, because a dog instinctually needs there to be an order, and if his human pack is displaying weak energy, and lack of discipline, his instincts tell him to step in and save the pack; there must be an order in the pack for the packs own survival.


Removing the Dog

Now YOU need to claim the furniture exactly the way your dog used to... (if you feel your dog will put you in danger by removing him, hire a professional to help you do this)

Place yourself where your dog is claiming as his own, for example, sit down on the couch with your arms and legs stretched out. Making yourself bigger and covering more area. As the dog approaches point towards the area he is allowed to lay (the area you chose for him) and tell him to "Go". Do not lean backwards, lean forwards. Moving back is a sign of weakness to a dog. If he advances towards the couch, reach forward and use your hand like a claw, "biting" him in the neck. Hold the bite for a second and say, "No, or shhhtttt, or Aattttt" (whatever sound you choose). The dog should react by stopping or backing up. Snap your fingers and point away from the couch and say, "Go lie down". Do this without fear, anxiety, harshness or nervousness. Your dog can sense these emotions and will see you as weak. This will escalate your problem as your dog feels an even stronger need to be your leader. Think Big and Powerful. Be calm, assertive, and consistent.

If your dog jumps up on the couch while you are not sitting on it, take the dog by his collar and lead him off of the furniture, with the same calm, assertiveness. "Down" and lead him to his new spot. Point to his spot and tell him to, "Lay Down".

Depending on how aggressively your dog guards the furniture, and if you are afraid you are going to get bitten, you may opt to put a muzzle and or a leash on your dog inside the house while you are working on this problem. When your dog jumps up on the furniture, take the authority role and move him off by using the leash to pull him, by calmly approaching him, pick up the leash and pop it hard, and say "Down". Step in and use your body to block him from getting back up. Remember, lean forward, never back. Straighten up your shoulders and stand tall. Command him to his new spot you chose for him and tell him to, "Go lie down."

After you remove your dog, YOU guard the couch by blocking the dog with your body, using a sound such as "aatttt" or "sshht!" as a warning if he tries to move in, just as another dog would. Do not make eye contact. Look over the top of your dogs head, not directly into his eyes. A dog will see a stare down as a challenge and if you avert your gaze first, your dog wins. Point and send him away, "Go"

When your dog is willingly laying in his new lower spot you chose for him, (such as his dog bed or blanket) toss him a treat. You can leave a treat on his spot once a day so he associates his spot with good things.

If you wish to have your dog up on the couch with you, and you feel like you have this problem under control, YOU may invite HIM up to YOUR spot. Call your dog by name and pat the couch, "Up". The moment you see any signs of aggression or possessiveness, kick your dog back off and direct him to his spot on the floor. It's not that your dog cannot be up on the furniture, it just has to be on your terms, not his, YOU are the pack leader, not HIM. You own it, and he must earn the privilege of being on it.

Remember, there is no hiding our emotions from our dogs. They can, in a sense, read our minds, in reading our emotions. This energy is the universal language of animals. Talk less, using more body language. Picture yourself, in your own mind as big, powerful and very sure of yourself. Pull your shoulders back and stand up straight. Lean forward, not back. Your dog will feel this. This is your number one resource when it comes to communicating with your dog. Your dog will be happy and secure knowing he has a strong pack leader to care for him. Be consistent and strict with this rule and you will see a huge change in this dogs behavior.

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The Cost of Dog Ownership
Can You Afford a Dog?

By Jenna Stregowski, RVT, About.com


The cost of owning a dog is about more than just the expense of food. Unfortunately, many people do not take the time to budget for a dog before getting one - and this can lead to trouble down the road. Can you afford a dog? Learn your limits before you get a dog to help you make the right decisions. Financially providing for your dogs is a big part of being a responsible dog owner.

The cost of owning a dog can be estimated at $700-3000 per year (see the chart at the bottom of this page). There are ways to save money depending on the choices you make. Contributing factors include your dog's size and age, the region in which you live, your own lifestyle, and your dog's individual needs.
Initial Investment
Consider costs when choosing a dog. Any new dog or puppy will come with substantial expenses. If you decide to purchase a purebred dog from a breeder, you can expect to spend $500-2000, give or take. Spend the extra money on a quality dog from a reputable and professional breeder, not a "backyard breeder." It will cost you less in the long run because the dog will be healthier (and it's the right thing to do).

If you you like mixed-breed dogs and you want to do your part to help dogs in need, then get your dog from a reputable shelter or rescue group. If you still want a purebred, there are plenty of breed-specific rescue groups. Adopting from a shelter or rescue can cost as little as $50-200. You are most likely to get a healthy dog when adopting from a reputable shelter or rescue group. Be aware that dogs with unknown histories might come with illnesses, so you may spend a bit extra on veterinary care at first if you adopt from a "questionable" shelter.

Regardless of where you get your new dog, the very first thing you should do is get that dog to a good veterinarian. Depending on the need for vaccines, preventive medications and special treatments, that first visit will likely cost you anywhere from $50-300, so be prepared. Vet bills for a young puppy will likely range from $100-300 depending on the puppy's health and the region in which you live.

Your next major expense: dog supplies. These include dog food, leashes, collars, beds, toys and so on. You also need to think about obedience classes and/or training resources. Bottom line - the first year with your new dog can cost as much as two times the typical annual cost of subsequent years, so be prepared.
Food and Treats
Is is important to feed your dog a high-quality dog food and healthy dog treats. This will likely cost anywhere from $20-60 per month ($250-700 per year). Food expenses vary based on the size and energy level of your dog as well as the quality of the food.
Toys
Dog toys are an important part of your dog's mental stimulation and exercise. Though some of us may indulge, you can probably plan on spending $25-150 per year. If you are like those of us who cannot resist a cute toy, this figure can become several hundred dollars higher. Another reason you may spend more on toys: a very destructive dog may go through toys faster, so if you have one of these dogs, invest in the toys designed for "tough chewers".
Beds
Every dog deserves a cozy bed, and keeping one or two around the house will cost you $50-200 a year. Prices go up in relation to size and quality. Getting durable, high-quality and easy-to-clean dog beds can extend the life of the beds and keep costs down in the long run.
Leashes and Collars
Your dog must have at least one leash and one collar (with ID tags). Depending on size and quality, most dog owners spend $20-50 per year on leashes and collars.
Grooming
Your dog's grooming needs are largely based upon the type of hair coat he has. Smooth coated, short-haired dogs require little more than basic grooming, while dogs with constantly growing hair will need to visit the groomer on a routine basis. Between the cost of grooming tools and visits to the groomer, you can plan on spending anywhere from $30-500 a year.
Routine Veterinary Care
Routine veterinary care is a huge part of keeping your dog healthy. Plan on going to the vet for wellness check-ups once or twice a year, and budget for $100-300 yearly. Vet costs will be higher if your dog develops a healthy problem. This is especially the case as your dog grows older. You may also consider purchasing pet insurance for your dog.
Preventive Medications and Supplements
All dogs need medications to prevent heartworms, fleas, ticks and other parasites. Your veterinarian will guide you towards the best products based on your climate and your dog's needs. Some dogs will also benefit from vitamins and supplements. In general, you will probably spend $100-300 per year for these items.
Obedience Classes or Training Resources
Though most dogs will only go to obedience school in their first year or two, training is something that should be ongoing throughout your dog's life. Whether you are buying books and DVDs for at-home training, or you enroll your dog in obedience classes, budget at least $25-300 per year for training needs.
Pet Sitters or Boarding
Most people will need to leave their dogs behind once or twice a year. Typically, this will cost about $100-300 a year. However, if you travel frequently, expect to spend much more. Boarding tends to cost less than hiring a pet sitter, but many dog owners prefer the individual attention a pet sitter can offer and think it is worth the extra expense. Alternatively, if you decide to travel with your dog, your can expect your travel fees to increase.
Emergencies and Other Unexpected Expenses
No one can predict the future - the unexpected occurs in life all the time. As a good dog owner, you should do your best to be ready for life's little surprises. Emergencies, chronic illnesses, disasters and other unplanned expenses can amount to hundreds or even thousands of dollars per year. The best way to stay prepared is to set aside extra money in savings, if possible. In a perfect world, dog owners would never have to make choices for their dogs based on money alone - it should be about what is best for their dogs. With proper planning, (and a little luck) you can provide for your own dog and live a long and happy life together.

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Before You Get a Dog - Are You Ready

By Jenna Stregowski, RVT, About.com

Is dog ownership right for you? Sure, that cute little bundle of fur and puppy breath is irresistible right now, but the wrong decision can result in a disaster down the road. If you want to be sure you are making the right choice, consider these factors before you finalize those dog adoption papers!
Do you Have What it Takes to Be a Responsible Dog Owner?
Responsible dog ownership means more than just adoring your dog. It is a serious lifelong commitment that requires time and close attention. Before you get a dog, be sure you are ready to commit to responsible dog ownership. Don’t forget -- when Fido misbehaves, you are the one who will have to take the blame.
Can You Afford a Dog?
Basic dog expenses can range from $700-$3000 per year. Plus, consider all the little extras that you may want to splurge on for your pampered pooch. If your dog suffers from a health condition, you could be looking at spending several more thousand dollars per year. Consider purchasing pet insurance after you get your new dog – a large percentage of medical expenses may be covered. Then, make a monthly budget that you can stick to.
Is Your Home Appropriate for a Dog?
Pet-proofing is not quite the same as child-proofing. Our four-legged companions tend to be a bit craftier than kids when it comes to off-limits areas (especially those with edible components). You can hardly expect your dog to be fully trained on arrival, so there is bound to be the need for confinement and restraint. Do you rent your home? There is no reason renters cannot be dog owners, but you will need to work with the landlord. What about size? A studio apartment may not be ideal if you get a Great Dane. Do you have children or other pets? You cannot be certain everyone will get along.
Can Your Lifestyle Fit a Dog?
If you work very long hours or travel frequently, your lifestyle may not be appropriate for a dog. Though a social life is important to many people, do friends and dating take up the majority of your free time? Consider whether or not you are willing to make adjustments to your lifestyle to accommodate a dog in your life. If not, now is probably not the right time to get a dog. If you are willing to make changes, consider the time it will take to provide basic needs such as training, grooming, exercise, and veterinary care. Then, decide if you can make the time.
Do you have physical limitations?
A chronic health condition or injury can make it difficult to care for a dog - especially a larger breed. Be sure you have someone else who can help when necessary. What about dog allergies? Allergies can seriously debilitate a person, often resulting in the choice to give up the dog. If you or someone in your household has allergies, spend some time around dogs to see if the symptoms can be managed. It is simply unfair to give up a dog for this reason if it can be prevented. If you are disabled in any way, consider getting a specially trained assistance dog - then you will have a companion and built-in helper!

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Getting a New Dog
How to Choose the Right Dog for You

By Jenna Stregowski, RVT, About.com

Are you thinking of getting a dog? Choosing to bring a new dog into your life is a major decision. Be sure you are ready for a dog before you start the process. It is also essential that you understand the cost of dog ownership. If you have decided that the time is right, congratulations! Now it is time to figure out what type of dog is right for you. There are several factors to consider before choosing a dog. Most importantly, examine your current lifestyle and consider what adjustments you are willing to make for a dog. Look at the needs of your family – especially if you have children or other pets. Think about the ideal size, energy level and age of your new dog. Then, determine where to get your new dog. Just remember that getting a dog requires a firm commitment to responsible dog ownership. Here are some tips to help you choose the best dog for you and your family.
Size
You may already know you want a little lap dog that you can carry around. Or, you might have your heart set on a large or giant dog breed. If you cannot decide, then perhaps a medium sized dog is a good choice.

Remember that small dogs tend to be delicate and vulnerable. Being stepped on or mishandled can cause serious injury. Also, little dogs can be much more sensitive to colder temperatures, so be ready to help keep them warm. Don’t forget that small dogs need obedience training too! Some little dogs can develop “tough dog” attitudes, seemingly to compensate for their small size. Be sure you are prepared for this possibility.

Very large dogs need a bit more space to move around. Big, happy dogs with long, whip-like tails need "wagging space" to avoid tail injury or damage to household objects. Another consideration is expense: the larger the dog, the more expensive things like dog food, dog supplies and medical treatments become. Training is also a key factor here. If you get a large or giant breed puppy that is allowed to act like a lap dog when young, he will grow up to walk all over you – literally!
Activity Level
You probably already know that some dogs have more energy than others. A dog’s activity level is often determined by breed, but it does not mean you can rely on breed alone to determine how energetic your dog could become. Every dog needs routine exercise, regardless of breed or size, so make sure you can to provide this. If you know you can not commit to more than one or two casual walks per day, then you will probably be better off with a lower energy dog, such as a Basset Hound. If you are looking for a dog that can be a jogging partner, agility competitor or “disc dog,” consider a breed like the Border Collie.

Be willing to adjust the amount of exercise and attention you give your dog if necessary. A dog that is barking constantly, digging up your yard, destroying your home, or acting out in some other way is most likely in need of extra activities. Many behavior problems are the result of excess energy. Unfortunately, many dogs are given up or even euthanized because of a behavior problem that could have easily been avoided with the proper amount of exercise and attention.
Physical Maintenance
Your dog’s appearance has a lot to do with his maintenance needs. All dogs need basic grooming, but certain types need more based on the type of hair coat. If you get a dog with hair that keeps growing, then advanced routine grooming is essential. Most short haired, smooth-coated dogs are major shedders, so be prepared to do some extra cleaning up. Some grooming tools can help reduce shedding. Be aware that dogs with long, floppy ears are more prone to ear infections and require frequent thorough ear cleanings. In addition, certain types of dogs can do a lot of drooling. Many owners of Mastiffs, Bloodhounds and similar dogs actually carry a “slobber cloth” with them to wipe the drool. If they shake their heads – watch out!
Age
Puppies require the greatest amount of training and attention, especially over the first six months. Be prepared to dedicate much of your time to housebreaking and raising your new puppy. You dog will likely have plenty of accidents in the house and will probably chew your furniture and personal belongings. These problems will gradually resolve with dedicated training, but patience is a must. You should also be aware that your puppy might grow up to be different then you expected, especially if you adopt a mixed-breed dog. This is not necessarily a bad thing, just something to keep in mind.

Adult dogs can be an excellent choice. An adult might be a better choice if you want to have a better idea of the true energy level, attitude, and temperament of your new dog. However, just because the dog is an adult does not mean he is trained, so you should still expect some degree of dedicated training at first. Fortunately, many adult dogs have been trained and socialized to some degree and can easily adjust to their new lives in their forever homes.

Senior dogs should not be forgotten! Welcoming a senior dog into your home can be a wonderful way to bring joy to the golden years of a dog. Unfortunately, senior dogs are less likely to be adopted and often end up living out their lives in shelters or being euthanized. A senior dog can make a wonderful companion if you are looking for a lower energy dog. However, it is important to know that your senior dog needs special attention, more frequent veterinary check-ups and is more likely to develop heath problems that cost time and money to address. Unlike a puppy or adult dog, you must know that you will not have as many years with your senior dog. If you are willing to accept the responsibilities, consider adopting a senior dog. It can be one of the most compassionate things you can do for these precious creatures.

Purebred or Mixed-Breed Dog?
Purebred dogs are undeniably popular. Many people are attracted to a specific dog breed for various reasons. Perhaps you were raised around the breed or have spent a lot of time with the breed in your life. Maybe you really love the way a certain breed looks and acts. Or, you might feel the breed is right for you based upon what you have read or heard about the breed. If you want a purebred dog, be sure you thoroughly research the breed. Determine if you are willing to take on potential challenges with temperament, grooming needs and health problems. Make sure the breed will fit in with your family and lifestyle – including other dogs.

Mixed breed dogs can become wonderful additions to your world. The combination of two or more dog breeds can often balance out their personalities and physical characteristics. Just be sure to expect the unexpected, especially if you adopt a “pound puppy.” There is no way of knowing exactly how your puppy will look when grown up, and you cannot really predict health problems. However, many experts believe that mixed-breed dogs end up with fewer health problems than purebred dogs. Overall they tend to be good-natured and intelligent. Plus, adopting a mixed-breed dog usually means you are saving that dog from euthanasia or a lonely shelter life!
Where to Find Your New Dog
Once you have narrowed down your options, it is time to start looking for your new dog. There are many options out there, but some are better than others. Research the organization or person from whom you will get your new dog to determine if they are reputable. Then, go see the location where the dogs are kept to make sure your new dog comes from a healthy environment. Here are some sources to help get you started. Animal Shelters: These can be great places to look for a new dog. Though lots of dogs in shelters are mixed-breed dogs, many times you can even find a purebred dog! Shelter dogs often have previous training and socialization, though others may unfortunately come from troubled backgrounds. Talk to the shelter staff members and volunteers about each dog you are considering to get an idea of background and personality. You can also try searching online adoption sites like Petfinder.com.
Rescue Organizations: Rescue groups are dedicated to finding the best families for homeless dogs, some are even devoted to specific dog breeds. Most rescue organizations keep their dogs in foster homes until they can find forever homes for them. These foster parents have usually forged a bond with the dogs and can tell you a lot about their history and personalities. Rescue organizations are typically very selective because they care so much about getting their dogs into the right homes, so be prepared to answer a lot of questions.
Reputable Breeders: If you choose to purchase a purebred dog, be certain you find a knowledgeable breeder with a good reputation – not a backyard breeder or puppy mill. Ask your vet and other dog owners for referrals, or get a referral from a rescue organization recommended by a national kennel club, such as the AKC Breeder Referral Contacts. A responsible breeder should be willing to show you the premises and tell you about the parents’ histories. Be certain that the breeder’s home or kennel is clean and odor-free. The adult dogs and puppies should appear healthy and lively. If you are not comfortable with the breeder, do not purchase a puppy.
Animal Shelters: These can be great places to look for a new dog. Though lots of dogs in shelters are mixed-breed dogs, many times you can even find a purebred dog! Shelter dogs often have previous training and socialization, though others may unfortunately come from troubled backgrounds. Talk to the shelter staff members and volunteers about each dog you are considering to get an idea of background and personality. You can also try searching online adoption sites like Petfinder.com.
Rescue Organizations: Rescue groups are dedicated to finding the best families for homeless dogs, some are even devoted to specific dog breeds. Most rescue organizations keep their dogs in foster homes until they can find forever homes for them. These foster parents have usually forged a bond with the dogs and can tell you a lot about their history and personalities. Rescue organizations are typically very selective because they care so much about getting their dogs into the right homes, so be prepared to answer a lot of questions.
Reputable Breeders: If you choose to purchase a purebred dog, be certain you find a knowledgeable breeder with a good reputation – not a backyard breeder or puppy mill. Ask your vet and other dog owners for referrals, or get a referral from a rescue organization recommended by a national kennel club, such as the AKC Breeder Referral Contacts. A responsible breeder should be willing to show you the premises and tell you about the parents’ histories. Be certain that the breeder’s home or kennel is clean and odor-free. The adult dogs and puppies should appear healthy and lively. If you are not comfortable with the breeder, do not purchase a puppy.
Precautionary Notes
Please, do not purchase your dog from a pet store. Tragically, these dogs are often from puppy mills. Though you might be “saving” the dog from poor conditions, you are supporting a terrible industry that should be put to an end.

Be careful about getting your dog through newspaper ads and signs with statements like “free to a good home.” Unfortunately, these dogs might come from poor conditions and irresponsible dog owners. Not only might you end up with an unhealthy dog, you may also be encouraging inconsiderate people who do not spay and neuter their pets.
Making Your Final Decision
Once you think you have found the right dog, make sure he appears healthy. He should be bright eyed and lively with a shiny coat and good appetite. You should get a new dog/puppy packet from the breeder or adoption group that contains general information about caring for your new dog. Make sure your home is for a new dog. In addition, be sure to bring your new dog to a vet for a general examination right away.

Congratulations on your new dog - I hope you and your dog will enjoy a long, happy life together!

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Your Dog's Basic Needs

By Jenna Stregowski, RVT, About.com

As a dog owner, you want to know you are meeting your dog's basic needs to ensure health and happiness. Like humans, dogs need food, water and shelter to survive. Also like humans, dogs need physical care and nurturing in order to thrive. Here’s how to help keep your dog healthy, happy and safe while meeting the basic needs of all dogs.
Proper Nutrition

A healthy, balanced diet is fundamental. Research food companies that pledge to use high-quality ingredients instead of fillers. Then, choose a quality diet that your pet enjoys. Spending lots of money on a holistic, top-of-the-line diet is useless if Fido won’t eat it. Many companies provide samples you can try without buying a whole bag. Others offer a money-back guarantee if your dog does not like the food. If you choose to provide a homemade diet, discuss the ingredients with your veterinarian first to be sure they are right for your dog. Then, make small batches until you are sure your dog actually likes it.

Once you have found an appetizing diet, watch how your dog responds over the first several weeks. A drop in energy level or a dull hair coat may warrant a diet change. If you do change your pet’s food, always do so gradually to avoid gastrointestinal upset or food aversion. Consult your veterinarian for nutritional advice, especially if you notice any changes in your pet’s health. Always be sure your dog has access to plenty of fresh, clean water.
Home – More Than Just a Shelter

Dogs are pack animals – they are not content when excluded from the family unit. Though some circumstances may require dogs to live outside, most dogs will thrive in a primarily indoor environment. Your dog should have an area of the house dedicated as his own space, such as a kennel, crate or bed. This teaches your dog to have respect for his own space and, in turn, yours. Set down ground rules, enforce off-limit areas of the house, and welcome your dog into permissible areas.


If your dog spends time outdoors, provide access to a doggie door or a temperature-controlled doghouse. Never leave your dog unattended outside without shelter, especially during very hot or cold weather, as this can result in severe health consequences.
Physical Maintenance

Keep your dog healthy with regular exercise and preventive veterinary care. Establish an exercise routine, even if it is just a stroll around the block each morning. Depending on your dog’s breed, more exercise may be necessary, but don’t overdo it. Visit your veterinarian at least once or twice a year for a wellness check-up. Potential problems are often identified before your dog actually shows signs of illness.

Every dog needs basic grooming, such as bathing and nail trimming. Some dogs even need regular haircuts. Find a reputable groomer, or learn to groom your dog at home. Then, establish a grooming regimen and stick with it.
Nurturing Your Dog

Dogs thrive on structure and discipline, and training is paramount to your dog’s quality of life. Choose a training program and follow through. You may prefer to join a training class with a professional instructor. Alternatively, you may wish to learn about dog training on your own. Either way, establish yourself as the boss, reinforce good behavior, and humanely correct misbehavior. Be consistent and you will see positive results.

Maintaining the human-canine bond is vital. Set aside time for you and your dog. Petting your dog, playing with toys, talking to him, or taking him for rides in the car are some ways to strengthen and preserve this bond.

Following the guidelines for your dog’s basic needs sets the foundation for a long, happy life with your dog. Dog ownership should not be a chore, but an experience that enriches your life and that of your dog. If you can keep that tail wagging, you will be happier, too.

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Keep Your Dog Healthy

By Jenna Stregowski, RVT, About.com

All good dog owners want to keep their dogs healthy. You love your dog, and you want her to be healthy and happy. Help keep your dog on the path to wellness with these dog health guidelines.
Expert Veterinary Care
High-quality veterinary care sets the foundation for your dog’s overall health. Find a veterinarian you can trust and visit regularly. Ideally, routine wellness examinations should be performed by your vet twice a year. Puppies and senior dogs should be seen even more frequently. If your dog has special needs, a chronic health condition or other illness, comply with your vet’s recommendations. Because your dog ages at a faster rate than you, many subtle changes can develop over a six to twelve month period. Routine visits allow your vet to closely monitor changes before your dog’s health gets out of control. Learn how to effectively communicate with your vet and you can expect the same in return. If you can develop a good connection with your vet, it can lead to long-term benefit for you and your dog.

Optimum Nutrition
Proper nutrition is a fundamental for keeping all dogs healthy. Diet directly affects your dog’s skin and coat, weight, energy level, and gastrointestinal function. If a problem occurs in one of these areas, it may be linked to improper diet. Choose a high-quality dog food made by a reputable company, or learn about homemade diets. Once you find the right food for your dog, use that food consistently. Watch your dog’s response to the diet over 4-8 weeks. How does her coat look? It should be shiny and free of flakes, but not greasy. Have you noticed a change in her energy level? A decrease in energy could indicate a problem. Has she lost or gained weight? Obesity in dogs is a very common problem which can often be reversed with proper diet and exercise. Excess weight loss may occur if your dog does not find the food palatable. If her response to the diet is poor, it may be time to look into other foods. A sudden change in dog foods can cause gastrointestinal upset, so switch over gradually unless otherwise directed by your vet.

Routine Exercise
Many dog owners underestimate their dogs’ exercise needs in relation to keeping their dog healthy. Destructive behavior may lead to a diagnosis of separation anxiety or other behavioral problems. While these conditions truly exist, in many cases the behavior is actually the result of an energy surplus. If you feed your dog a healthy diet, it should give her plenty of energy. However, if your dog can’t release that energy with exercise, it may be released on your furniture, carpet, doorways, or even your prized collection of rare books. Before you blame your dog for the damage, ask yourself if she’s getting enough exercise. In general, dogs need at least 1-2 hours of exercise per day, but this varies by breed, size and age. Over time, determine the ideal exercise regimen for your dog and establish a routine. You might even notice an improvement in your own health in the meantime.

Dental Care
It can be all too easy to forget about your dog's teeth until you get a whiff of bad breath. Plaque and tartar build-up can lead to serious health problems. Don't wait until dental disease is present - start focusing on dental care right now, if you nave not already. You can brush your dog's teeth, use oral rinses, feed dental treats, or all of the above - just do something. And don't forget to talk to your vet about your dog's teeth. Professional cleanings may be necessary from time to time.
Regular Grooming
Grooming is not just for “fancy” dogs. All dogs need some degree of basic physical upkeep. In general, your dog’s grooming needs will be based on her breed. However, your dog may have special needs due to health conditions such as allergies. The average short-haired dog will benefit from a monthly nail trim, bath and brushing. Long-haired dogs should be brushed out daily. Dogs with continuously growing hair may need a haircut every week or two. Once you determine your dog’s grooming needs, decide if you will be doing it yourself, or if you need to hire a professional. Either way, schedule grooming sessions for your dog on a regular basis.

Watch for Warning Signs
Because our dogs cannot speak in words, we must rely on the signs they give us when it comes to analyzing our dog's health. Your dog may exhibit a variety of signs that indicate a health problem. Just like you, your dog can develop a mild illness that resolves on its own, so not all signs are cause for alarm. However, many dogs will instinctively try to conceal signs of serious illness. Learn what to watch for and how to act appropriately before the illness becomes out of control. If your dog is displaying signs of illness, contact your vet right away.

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Gear for Your Dog
Must-Have Dog Supplies

By Jenna Stregowski, RVT, About.com

There are so many kinds of dog supplies available that we may wonder what is really necessary and what is extravagant. Realistically, there are multiple factors that contribute to a happy, healthy life for your dog. You start by meeting your dog’s basic needs and practicing responsible dog ownership. Then, you move on to the details, like choosing dog supplies. To avoid going over the top, you should determine what kinds of dog supplies you really need in order to complete your dog’s life. For your consideration, here’s a rundown of the top kinds of dog supplies available today.
Dog Collars

Every dog should have a collar or harness, period. This collar or harness should ALWAYS be equipped with your dog’s current identification tags. Microchips are a great way to supplement identification tags, but they are not acceptable replacements. Beyond identification, collars or harnesses are used with leashes in order to walk and restrain your dog. Plus, they are a great way to show off your dog’s personal style (and your own, too)!

Dog Leashes
Every dog needs a leash, and each should be trained to walk on it. Chances are your dog will be subject to leash laws at one time or another, even if there are no leash laws in your area. You may even want to keep multiple types of leashes around the house for multiple uses. For fun, you can coordinate your dog’s leash and collar to maximize style.


Dog Beds
Your dog should have a special place to go and snuggle up, whether it is an old pillow that is just right, or a specific style of dog bed. Dog beds come in many designs to fit the needs of all kinds of dogs. Try to get a bed for each dog in the house, plus one extra. Or, you could get a larger bed for dogs who like to share.

Dog Kennels
Dog kennels, or crates, can be a wonderful thing for most dogs. Similar to a dog bed, having a kennel can give your dog a place to retreat and feel secure. Kennels are an integral part of housebreaking and can also play a role in other types of training. Additionally, kennels can really come in handy for travel.


Dog Toys
There are very few dogs that do not enjoy their toys. Some prefer a nice loud squeaky toy, while others want to play fetch or tug-of-war. Toys are an important part of your dog’s development – they often mimic activities dogs would perform in the wild, such as chewing or retrieving. Plus, they help keep your dog active and stimulated.


Dog Grooming Equipment
All dogs need some degree of grooming, a task that requires some equipment. You will need to find grooming tools that suit your dog’s overall grooming requirements. Choose brushes, combs and shampoos based on your dog’s coat type. For some types, you will need hair clippers and scissors. All dogs need nail trims, but the size of your dog will determine the type of nail trimmers needed. Other miscellaneous grooming tools may be helpful depending on your dog’s individual needs.


Dog Bowls
Obviously, food and water are necessary for your dog to survive and remain healthy. Your choice of bowls or dishes is important as well. Plastic bowls may not be ideal for some dogs, while stainless steel bowls are economical and durable. Ceramic bowls come in various designs, adding a little personality to mealtime.

Dog Food
The type of food you choose give your dog has a major impact your dog’s overall health. With so many choices out there, picking out the best foods can be a daunting task. Think twice before you reach for the economy dog food off the grocery shelf – do some research so you can make an educated choice. Finding the best varieties of dog treats is also a part of this process.


Preventative Products
Just like we need to take good care of ourselves to ward off illness, preventative measures should be taken to protect your dog’s health. This may include vitamins and supplements, parasite prevention and dental care. Your veterinarian will prescribe the appropriate treatments based upon your location and your pet’s individual needs.

Extras
There are numerous dog products out there for recreation, protection, or just plain fun. For example, you might choose to get a seat belt to make car rides safer. Or, your Whippet might need a fleece jacket for freezing winters. Sometimes, you just can’t resist buying that cute bow for your Yorkie’s hairdo. From clothing to safety devices, the possibilities are endless. Just remember to get what your dog needs first, and what you want second.

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What Causes Gas in Dogs
And How to Stop the Smell

From Kymythy Schultze , for About.com

When asked this question, I sometimes joke to the person inquiring that it's good they're going to start taking responsibility for their own emissions and stop blaming the dog! But seriously, frequent gas in your dog shouldn't be ignored. It can be much more than just unpleasant aromatherapy.

First the question: What causes gas in dogs?
Unfortunately, there is not one simple answer as the reason can range from bad food to parasites to illness. To get to the, uh, bottom, of what's causing gas in your particular furry friend, you first need to look at the whole animal. Is the dog healthy and in good condition other than having gas? If your dog is not in good health, then a trip to your favorite veterinarian (preferably one who practices alternative medicine) is in order. If your dog is in good health, other than occasionally clearing the room, then it may be time to try a few simple natural remedies.

What Goes in Must Come Out
The most important factor is food and this includes your dog's regular diet and any treats they receive. Your dog could have food allergies or the food may be of poor quality. We've probably all heard the expression "Garbage in = Garbage out" and it applies to your canine friend as well as yourself. If your dog's diet contains any ingredients that interfere with normal digestion they may experience stomach problems, including gas. And don't forget to examine treats that are given. From my experience as a canine nutritionist over the last two decades I find a fresh food diet creates the healthiest dogs I've ever seen.

Real species-appropriate food is easy for dogs to digest and utilize. I've fed my own Newfoundland dogs this way for about 20 years now and we do not have any problems with gas (good thing too with a dog the size of a Newf - we'd blow out the windows!). To learn more about preparing a simple meal of real food for your dog check out my book "Natural Nutrition for Dogs and Cats" as it explains exactly how to go about doing it correctly. Even if you're not willing to prepare your dog's meals, you should definitely focus on finding a better source of nutrition to help eliminate gas.

Some dogs, even on a good diet, will occasionally get into something they shouldn't and let you know about it the odiferous way. Here are few natural remedies to try: Peppermint - tear up a couple of leaves of this herb into their food.
Nux Vomica - this is a homeopathic remedy and should be given away from food.
Enzymes - these help to breakdown undigested food.
Probiotics - flora found in the digestive system; these "good guys" help knock out the "bad guys." Look for the non-dairy variety.
Massage - relax your dog onto his back and gently massage the midline of the stomach, and yes, it does help to coo and talk calmly!
Peppermint - tear up a couple of leaves of this herb into their food.
Nux Vomica - this is a homeopathic remedy and should be given away from food.
Enzymes - these help to breakdown undigested food.
Probiotics - flora found in the digestive system; these "good guys" help knock out the "bad guys." Look for the non-dairy variety.
Massage - relax your dog onto his back and gently massage the midline of the stomach, and yes, it does help to coo and talk calmly!
Do not try all of the above at the same time or you'll never know which worked best. But, do try them, as they are all gentle and effective ways to allow your farting furry friend back into the fold!


About the Author
Kymythy Schultze has been a trailblazer in animal nutrition for over two decades. She is also a human nutritionist and has helped thousands of people and their pets live happier, healthier lives. To learn how to easily prepare healthy meals for dogs, cats, and humans, check out her best-selling books: Natural Nutrition for Dog and Cats: The Ultimate Diet and The Natural Nutrition No-Cook Book: Delicious Food for YOU and YOUR Pets! Find her website at www.kymythy.com.

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Before You Chain Your Dog
Dogs on Chains, why its not a good idea...

Dogs who are chained run a much higher risk of biting and are more likely to be the dogs that run off and don't come back when called.

>>> www.dogbreedinfo.com (http://www.dogbreedinfo.com)

I find it difficult to see dogs chained! It's just heartbreaking! :doggie:
I think that if we decide to have a dog, we should take into consideration giving them proper care and a good environment.

Let's say NO TO CHAINS!!!!

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I find it difficult to see dogs chained! It's just heartbreaking! :doggie:
I think that if we decide to have a dog, we should take into consideration giving them proper care and a good environment.

Let's say NO TO CHAINS!!!!

i think so too.. dogs are not meant to be chained.. it hurts them..

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DON’T BUY FROM A PET STORE

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This is what you support when you buy that cute little puppy from a pet store. No matter what the store may tell you. No responsible breeder sells their animals to pet stores. End of story.

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_z_gGXxYhN3g/SdPxjG_IH8I/AAAAAAAAA58/tJas5j9HPEw/s400/about-cages-outside.jpg (javascript:;)
Why puppy mills are bad:
Dogs are subjected to having litter after litter until they cannot reproduce anymore and often, tumors form on their mammory glands. They never see a veterinarian or receive proper medical care. It is easy to replace the breeding stock because they are considered disposable. They live in a small cage standing on wire constantly. Most of the dogs rescued from Puppy Mills have never experienced walking on solid ground, much less the joy of running through the grass. The puppies are sold for profit through animal brokers, auctions, Pet Stores, and to individuals. Find out more about Puppy Mills and how you can help end their abuse.

Tips to avoid buying from Puppy Mills. Here are a few ways that you can ensure that you are not buying a puppy that came from a Puppy Mill.

* Please consider adoption first. There are thousands of good dogs euthanized every week across our country because there is no place for them in the overcrowded shelters. Visit your local humane society or other shelters frequently and select the right puppy or dog that is suited to you. Every puppy purchased from a pet store or puppy mill means that another dog in a shelter looses his life.

* If you feel that you must buy a dog, find a responsible breeder. Always visit the premises and see where they are raised. Make sure that they are being cared for in a healthy and adequate environment. Never take the breeder at their word, seeing is the only proof you will have.

* Beware of newspaper and online adds. Once again, make sure that you see the premises and the parents of the puppy that you are considering buying.

* Avoid “rescuing” a puppy by paying money for him/her from a breeder. There are a lot of breeders that will sell their puppies that don’t get sold to individuals and pet stores on the side of the road, in front of businesses, and at flea markets. If you see this occuring, please call your local authority and report the activity. It more than likely will not get them fined or in trouble, but it will run them off at least. You do not want to “rescue” a puppy in this manner because it puts money into the breeders pocket and opens up a space for more puppies. The cycle keeps repeating and never ends. This is a very difficult thing to do, but these puppies are too easily replaced.

* Buying from a Pet Store almost always guarantees that the puppies came from a puppy mill. Their bottom line is money from the sale just like that of the breeder at the puppy mill. Avoid buying a puppy that you cannot trace its origins to see the premise and parents


:prayer: for the dogs..

>>>http://gentscaninesociety.com

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A LIVING KEANE PAINTING

http://gentscaninesociety.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/valentino%20Keane%20by%20Steven%20Meisel.jpg (javascript:;)

http://gentscaninesociety.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/keaneboy.jpg (javascript:;)

* The big eyed Keane paintings were popular in the 1960s. This reproduction of the boy and his Poodle sells on e-Bay for $700. An original can cost in the thousands. Here (top) photographer Steven Meisel recreated the look with live models and some photo-shopping.

>>http://gentscaninesociety.com

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Labrador Retriever
Breed Profile
Breed Group: Sporting
Weight: Male: 65-80; Female: 55-70 lbs
Height: Male: 22.5-24.5; Female: 21.5-23.5 inches
Color(s): solid black, yellow, or chocolate

Breed Description

Coat
The Labrador Retriever is a double coat breed. The outer coat is straight, short, very dense, and hard in texture. The under coat is soft, weather-resistant, and protects this breed from cold, all types of ground cover, and water. The color of the coat comes in chocolate, black, and yellow. This breed is an average shedder.

Overview
Originating in Newfoundland during the 1700s, the Labrador Retriever was imported to England in the early 1800s. This breed is among the oldest of the modern recognized breeds. Their versatility and endless positive attributes have made the Labrador Retriever a popular family pet.

Character
The Labrador Retriever is medium in size, strong, athletic, and well balanced. They are friendly, outgoing, and possess an extremely sweet personality. There are two types of Labrador: The American, which is tall and lanky, and the English, which is more thick and heavy. This sporting breed is adept at hunting and retrieving. Labrador Retrievers are revered as companions and highly respected for their loving nature.

Temperament
This breed is highly intelligent, loyal, and deeply devoted. The Labrador Retriever is reliable, affectionate, and thrive on human companionship and attention. They are absolutely wonderful with children and get along exceedingly well with other dogs. They may be reserved with strangers and make good watchdogs. If this breed is left alone for extended periods of time without attention or stimulation they will become lonely, bored, and destructive.

Care
The Labrador Retriever requires regular grooming with a firm bristle brush. Special care should be given to the under coat to prevent mats and tangles. Bathing or dry shampooing should only be done when absolutely necessary. Labrador Retrievers are prone to elbow and hip dysplasia, eye disorders, and PRA.

Training
This breed is easily trained. Early socialization and basic obedience are recommended. The Labrador Retriever is very strong and must be taught not to pull on their leash. They do not respond to harsh or heavy-handed methods. The Labrador Retriever needs fairness, firmness, consistency, reward, and respect. They excel in tracking, police work, search and rescue, agility, competitive obedience, guide for the blind, and as service dogs for the disabled.

Activity
Delightful, high-spirited, and energetic, the Labrador Retriever requires a great deal of exercise. They enjoy family play sessions, securely leashed walks, swimming, and a safely fenced yard to run and romp freely. This breed will do okay in an apartment dwelling provided they are given sufficient exercise, attention, and stimulation.

Ownership
If you are looking for Labrador Retriever puppies for sale from reputable Labrador Retriever breeders or to adopt a Labrador Retriever from a Labrador Retriever rescue then make sure you understand as much about the dog breeds you are interested in as you can. Every puppy breed is different. Begin your research by reading the breed information about the Labrador Retriever puppy above. Search our dog breeds section to find Labrador Retriever puppies, dogs and puppies that make great pets.



>>>http://www.nextdaypets.com/

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Yorkshire Terrier - Yorkie Breed Information

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Breed Profile
Breed Group: Toy
Weight: 7 lbs
Height: 8-9 inches
Color(s): blue and tan. Yorkshire Terriers are born black, gradually attaining their blue and tan coloration as they mature.

Breed Description

Coat
The Yorkshire Terrier's coat is not coarse, but is fine and silky to the touch. Unlike other breeds, which have fur, the Yorkshire has hair that is growing constantly. They have no undercoat and do not shed.

Overview
The Yorkshire Terrier is a lovely lap dog that much prefers to be held on their owner's lap all day. They have a dose of attitude combined with a bright and playful nature. The Yorkshire Terrier is a true and loyal companion.

Character
This dog is intelligent, lively, and fearless. They focus entirely on their owner and are extremely affectionate. It has been said that a Yorkshire Terrier requires more human companionship and attention than any other breed.

Temperament
The Yorkshire Terrier can be territorial and likes to have their space respected. They are tolerant of older children if treated with care. The Yorkshire Terrier can also be somewhat independent and assertive. They get along well with other pets.

Care
The Yorkshire Terrier's coat requires daily grooming. The hair on top of the head, if grown long, is usually secured with a band or bow. However, if the Yorkshire Terrier is not being used for show, then the coat may be clipped short. Ears and eyes must be cleaned daily. Dental hygiene is also important.

Training
This breed is quick to learn. However, they may become willful in which case training of any kind can become difficult. Training must have consistency and firmness. They do not like to be ignored, so lots of praise will bring out the best in their training.

Activity
The Yorkshire Terrier requires minimal exercise. They are suited for short walks and ideal for apartment living or homes with small yards. They love to chase shadows, lay in sunbeams, and tug of war. The more attention this breed receives the better.

Ownership
If you are looking for Yorkshire Terrier - Yorkie puppies for sale from reputable Yorkshire Terrier - Yorkie breeders or to adopt a Yorkshire Terrier - Yorkie from a Yorkshire Terrier - Yorkie rescue then make sure you understand as much about the dog breeds you are interested in as you can. Every puppy breed is different. Begin your research by reading the breed information about the Yorkshire Terrier - Yorkie puppy above. Search our dog breeds section to find Yorkshire Terrier - Yorkie puppies, dogs and puppies that make great pets.

>>>http://www.nextdaypets.com/

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German Shepherd Breed Information

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Breed Profile

Breed Group: Herding
Weight: 75-95 lbs
Height: Male: 24-26; Female: 22-24 inches
Color(s): most colors, other than white, are permissible.

Breed Description

Coat
The German Shepherd is a double coat breed. The outer coat is harsh, straight, and thick. The under coat is dense and soft. The coat comes in a variety of colors such as black and tan, black and cream, black and silver, solid black, and sable. The German Shepherd comes in three varieties: rough coat, long hair, and long rough coat. This breed is a continuous shedder with seasonal heavy shedding.

Overview
This breed was developed in the 19th century by Max Von Stephanitz who is considered to be the father of the German Shepherd. Revered for their versatility as companion and for their dedication to work, this breed has the distinction of being the first dog ever used as a guide for the blind. Today the German Shepherd is one of the most popular breeds in the world.

Character
The German Shepherd is a breed of classic beauty and possesses superior intelligence. They are highly adaptable, energetic, curious, strong, and dependable. This breed displays a magnificent appearance and is extremely agile with great stamina and endurance.

Temperament
A member of the herding group, the German Shepherd is fearless, bold, hard working, and alert. They are esteemed for their loyalty, deep devotion, and courage. This breed thrives on human interaction from their family and does not like to be left alone for extended periods of time. German Shepherds are exceptionally wary of strangers. They will most generally get along with other household pets they have been raised with. This breed will attempt to perform the task of herding on anything and everything that moves. The German Shepherd is not recommended for the novice, apathetic, or sedentary owner.

Care
This breed requires daily brushing to minimize loose hair. Bathing should only be done when absolutely necessary using a mild shampoo to preserve the integrity of the coat. German Shepherds are prone to such health issues as blood disorders, elbow and hip dysplasia, epilepsy, flea allergies, digestive problems, and chronic eczema.

Training
The German Shepherd requires early intensive and extensive socialization and obedience training. They will not respond to harsh or heavy-handed methods. This breed is obedient and quick to learn. Training must be done with respect, firmness, fairness, reward, and consistency. They are exceptionally talented in tracking, schutzhund, agility, obedience, fly-ball, and ring sport. The German Shepherd is often used in police work, search and rescue, as a guide for the blind, and military work.

Activity
This breed is happiest when given a job to do. They require strenuous exercise and enjoy securely leashed walks, family play sessions, and a large safely fenced area to romp and run freely in. The German Shepherd will do okay in an apartment or condominium dwelling provided they are given sufficient exercise, stimulation, and attention.

Ownership
If you are looking for German Shepherd puppies for sale from reputable German Shepherd breeders or to adopt a German Shepherd from a German Shepherd rescue then make sure you understand as much about the dog breeds you are interested in as you can. Every puppy breed is different. Begin your research by reading the breed information about the German Shepherd puppy above. Search our dog breeds section to find German Shepherd puppies, dogs and puppies that make great pets.

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Golden Retriever Breed Information

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Profile
Breed Group: Sporting
Weight: Male: 65-75; Female: 55-65 lbs
Height: Male: 23-24; Female: 21.5-22.5 inches
Color(s): various shades of gold

Breed Description

Coat
The Golden Retriever has a double coat that is water repellent and weather resistant. The outer coat is firm, resilient, and can be wavy or straight. The tail and legs are feathered with longer hair. The under coat is dense and soft in texture. The coat color is rich, lustrous, and varies in shades of cream to gold. The Golden is a heavy shedder.

Overview
The Golden Retriever was developed in Britain during the 1800's. The man responsible for this illustrious breed, Lord Tweedmouth, wanted a dog that was loyal, kind, spirited, and energetic. He also wanted a dog with a love for water and the ability to retrieve. Golden Retrievers are the embodiment of beauty and brains.

Character
The Golden Retriever is a gorgeous, large, and energetic breed. They are the world's foremost family pet and companion. They are sturdy, well proportioned, and are well known for their hunting capabilities on land and in the water. The Golden is perceptive and agile.

Temperament
Golden Retrievers are loveable, polite, and highly intelligent. They exude charm and confidence. They are sweet, eager to please, and devoted family companions. They do not do well if left alone for extended periods of time or they will become mischievous and destructive. They have a tendency to be overly exuberant and distractible. They are always gentle and patient with children. They are friendly with other pets. In fact, they are friendly with everyone. They tend to bark as a form of greeting. The Golden Retriever is not well suited for a two career family as they require an inordinate amount of human interaction and companionship.

Care
The Golden Retriever requires daily and thorough brushing with a firm bristle brush. They should be dry shampooed regularly, and bathed only when absolutely necessary with a mild shampoo. They are prone to hip dysplasia, cataracts, and skin allergies. It is important to not over feed the Golden Retriever, as they have a tendency to gain weight.

Training
The Golden Retriever is one of the easiest breeds to train. They excel in obedience and are popular therapy and service dogs. They have many talents including competitive obedience, narcotic detection, agility, and performing tricks.

Activity
The Golden Retriever requires daily exercise. They enjoy play sessions with their family, retrieving balls and other toys. They will do okay in an apartment dwelling provided they are sufficiently exercised. Golden Retrievers are moderately active indoors and does best with a medium to large sized securely fenced yard.

Ownership
If you are looking for Golden Retriever puppies for sale from reputable Golden Retriever breeders or to adopt a Golden Retriever from a Golden Retriever rescue then make sure you understand as much about the dog breeds you are interested in as you can. Every puppy breed is different. Begin your research by reading the breed information about the Golden Retriever puppy above. Search our dog breeds section to find Golden Retriever puppies, dogs and puppies that make great pets.

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Beagle Breed Information

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Breed Profile
Breed Group: Hounds
Weight: 18-30 lbs
Height: 13 inches
Color(s): any true hound color (tricolor)

Breed Description

Coat
The Beagle has a hound type coat of medium length making grooming relatively easy for this breed. The hair should lie close to the body of the dog and should be hard, never soft or silky. The Beagle looks like a small English Foxhound. Beagles have a very sleek and shorthaired coat.

Overview
The Beagle was originally bred for hunting purposes and does remarkably well. Being a scent hound, this breed has the tendency to follow his nose and ignore anything and everything so obedience training at an early age is a must. The Beagle originated as a cross between the Harrier and many other hounds in England. This breed does best when hunting hare, pheasant, or quail.

Character
The Beagle is full of energy and does great in a family environment. They are very lively, active, and high energy making a wonderful childs companion given the proper socialization. This breed is alert and of even temperament and should never show signs of aggression or timidity. The Beagle can be very mischievous and very bold at times so proper precautions must be taken when training and/or socializing this fun loving breed.

Temperament
The Beagle is an all around happy dog that makes a wonderful companion for many different families. This breed adapts to many different environments and lifestyles, if not all. The Beagle is very eager to please, and is very intelligent however training must be consistent as this breed tends to lose interest and focus on something that catches his attention. This breed does extremely well with children, and can do exceptionally well with other pets if socialized properly.

Care
Beagles should require daily brushing to remove any dead or loose hair. A wipe down with a damp towel should suffice for the bathing aspect, however a rubber, wire, or hard bristled brush would work best for the brushing aspect. The ears of this breed should be cleaned on a regular basis, as this breed is prone to painful ears or ear infections. The nails of the Beagle should also be trimmed. This breed is an average shedder, which can be controlled with regular combing.

Training
The Beagle is very intelligent and very eager to please making him a wonderful student to work with. However, they do tend to lose interest fairly quickly as they are bound to pick up a scent and follow it. This is when obedience training definitely comes in handy. If properly trained, the Beagle should listen however, if not trained properly, ignoring is a big problem. Consistency and firm yet gentle handling is a must if this breed is to excel as they so desperately want to.

Activity
The Beagle is fairly active and loves long and vigorous walks, as they are the outdoorsy type. Considering they have a very strong hunting instinct, this breed should always be kept on a leash or in a fenced in yard as he is bound to run off if something catches his interest. Two long daily walks are recommended, as this breed seems to have great stamina and be somewhat tireless. The Beagle responds best in a home with a large yard.

Ownership
If you are looking for Beagle puppies for sale from reputable Beagle breeders or to adopt a Beagle from a Beagle rescue then make sure you understand as much about the dog breeds you are interested in as you can. Every puppy breed is different. Begin your research by reading the breed information about the Beagle puppy above. Search our dog breeds section to find Beagle puppies, dogs and puppies that make great pets.

>>>www.nextdaypets.com

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true stories about hero dogs


Biyou, the Australian Shepherd dog

In the early days of 2001, 42 year-old Linda Parker was trying to save her horse that had fallen into the waters of a frozen pond. But, trying to be a rescuer, she fell in. She was now in a 50-50 coin flip of survival. Her dog, Biyou, a 3 year-old Australian Shepherd, heard her screams and dashed towards the pond like a cheetah. He pulled a wet, cold, scared Parker out of the water and onto her feet. But Parker’s troubles were not’t over yet. She still had to climb a steep hill and walk 200 yards until she got to the protection of her house! Thanks to Biyou’s gentle pushes of encouragement, Parker made it! Too bad her horse didn't.


Tang, the Amazing Collie

In 1954, a big collie named Tang was standing in front of a milk truck. He wouldn’t budge! He barked like mad until the driver got out. Good thing! In the back of the truck, there was a two year-old girl. If the truck drove away, the girl would have fallen out and probably cracked her head open. Yowzers!



Sable, the Black Lab

Marybeth Waltman had a problem with her body, so she had to use a wheelchair for decades, but the problem got worse. Then Sable entered her life, a black Labrador. Waltman is dependent on being connected to a ventilator at night. When she needs help, she triggers an alarm on her head which tells Sable that she is in trouble. Sable then immediately wakes up Jim, Marybeth’s husband, by jumping and barking on Jim’s bed. Sable saved her life 3 times. One of these times, Waltman fell backwards on her bed and found she couldn’t breath! She then alerted Sable to help her by getting Jim. At that time, Jim was on the other side of the house. Sable immediately began barking, but when Sable found that no one came, she went and found Jim who immediately came to the rescue with Sable right behind!
Sable also goes to the mall with Marybeth and other places, too. Sable picks up the items her owner drops, opens doors and pushes elevator buttons. She is a very useful dog.




Leo, the Hero Poodle

A poodle called Leo, 11 year-old Sean Callahan, and Sean's brother Erin were playing near a river in 1985. Suddenly the group spotted a HUGE diamondback rattlesnake. It was five and a half feet long! That's longer than me! Quickly, Leo leaped between the boys and the dangerously deadly snake. After that, the snake started launching attacks like a battleship. It took a bite into Leo's head six times! When Leo finally got to a vet, he was so weak he couldn't stand and his head was so swollen you couldn't see his left eye. Gladly, Leo survived!





>>>http://library.thinkquest.org/

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service dogs


Service dogs are used to help people with different kinds of ailments or disabilities. The service dog can do many tasks, depending on the person's disability. There are dogs to help people who are blind, dogs to help the deaf, and dogs to help people who have diseases that cause seizures, such as epilepsy. There are also service dogs for those people who have limited use of their arms and/or legs. There are also psychiatric service dogs who keeps a person with an psychiatric disorder calm and able to be going to out in public.




Hearing dogs are trained to sounds in the environment. For instance, the dog may be trained to hear a doorbell ring and will notify the deaf or hearing impaired person by running back and forth between the door and the person. A dog may also be trained to hear the alarm clock so that the person will be wakened at the correct hour in the morning. Usually the dog is trained to wake the person in a gentle way, by licking the hand or face.





To help people with limitations in their movement because of paralyzed hands or legs, mobility assistance dogs are trained to pick up objects, open or close doors, turn lights on and off and help with getting the person in and out of a wheelchair. They may also be used to help the person get out of bed, get dressed or pull the wheelchair. They may also help people who have trouble with balance when trying to stand up or sit down. The dog will stand ready and act as a brace for the person to hold onto as they get up or sit down.




Psychiatric service dogs help people with diseases such as depression, schizophrenia or anxieties. They alert the person to situations that may be disturbing. They are also used to bring the person the medication they need every day. The dog is used to help calm the person or help them get to a place where they may feel safe.





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guide dogs




http://library.thinkquest.org/CR0210580/graphics/photo_home_dogs.jpg Guiding Eyes for the Blind is a program that helps men and women that are blind or visually impaired. The program provides guide dogs to help individuals travel safely, which gives them independence, dignity, and opportunities they would not have without the help of their dog.
Forty-eight years ago Guiding Eyes established this simple and beautiful mission. Since then, they have graduated more than 5,000 dogs.
There are several types of dogs that are used as guide dogs. They are the Labrador, the Retriever, the Golden Retriever and the German Shepherd. The puppies are specially chosen and given to volunteer puppy raisers. Puppy raisers are people or families who volunteer to provide the love, support, and direction the puppies need before they attend the formal training at Guiding Eyes in Yorktown Heights, New York.
Guiding Eyes provides the training and support to the families. The puppies stay in the volunteer’s home for 14 to 18 months to learn manners and social skills. Then they are sent to Guiding Eyes for formal training as Guide Dogs.
Guide dogs are available to people who are 16 or older free of charge. Guiding Eyes works hard to match up a dog with an appropriate human partner.
Guide dogs are responsible for directing their partner through traffic, down streets, and anywhere he or she may need to go. Some dogs have even been responsible for saving their partner’s life. One man reported his dog Corky saved his life more than once form cars that were running red lights. The dog did this by putting herself in front of the man, stopping him from walking.
Clearly Guiding Eyes for the Blind is a valuable service to many people.



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http://library.thinkquest.org/CR0210580/graphics/porkchop.jpgPorkchop is a 1-year-old Australian shepherd dog. He helps out at Ground Zero. He has never found any humans, but he has found a lot of human remains. Porkchop and other dogs like him work 12-hour days looking through the tons of rubble at the World Trade Center.
Cadaver dogs usually get years of training with their handlers, who are members of fire departments or are emergency medical technicians. Cadaver dogs must learn to do things that are different from their natural instincts. For example, most dogs run with their claws clenched in the earth. Cadaver dogs must learn not to disturb anything in their path, so they cannot clench their paws into the earth.





Cadaver dogs use their keen sense of smell to help them find human remains. Their sense of smell is thousands of times more sensitive than humans' sense of smell.
Some cadaver dogs bark when they find human remains. Others are trained to lie down. Then the rescue specialists come in and seek out what the dogs have found.
These cadaver dogs need lots of attention to keep them doing the job they are meant to do. There is a whole team of veterinarians who have volunteered at Ground Zero to give medical assistance to the dogs. The dogs need to have their feet cleaned from all of the hazardous material they walk on all day. They need their ears and noses cleaned; their eyes burn and tear from the air, just like the humans who are helping out. Many of the dogs go on an intravenous feedings, like humans do, to keep them fed and keep them from getting dehydrated.



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In a canine avalanche team, the dog and the handler are equally important. They work hard to try to save the people who have been buried in an avalanche. The handlers and dogs have to have quick response, they have to search thoroughly, and they have to remember their own safety. They need to have all of the skills necessary to search safely and effectively through an avalanche.

Search dogs are the most important tools for finding people who were stuck in an avalanche. It is very important for these people to be found quickly because they will freeze to death if not found within a short amount of time, depending on the temperature.

Trainers actually bury themselves inside of snow when they train the avalanche dogs. A handler helps the dogs find the trainer. The trainers try to make it as close to a real crisis as possible to try to convince the dogs of the needs of the people that are buried. The dogs are rewarded with playtime and praise. After their hard work digging through the snow, playing with a Frisbee is real fun!

Avalanche dogs are very important now since there are so many skiers and snowboarders on the mountains who may cross paths with an avalanche. These dogs are great lifesavers!







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http://library.thinkquest.org/CR0210580/graphics/group.jpgFirefighters solve arson fires with K-9 units, or dogs. These dogs are specially trained to sniff out evidence at the scene of a suspected arson crime. When there is a suspicious fire the firefighters and police must try to figure out if the fire was an accident, or started on purpose. The job of the arson dog is to help in finding that evidence which would point to crime.
Schooling begins before the dog and fire detective meet. Trainers direct the dog to a container that has two drops of 50% evaporated gas in it. The dog gets a few chunks of food. It quickly learns that the smell of gas and is rewarded by getting food. Before the handlers come, people who handle the dogs learn “primary alert” and “secondary alert”! Primary alert is when a dog finds the accelerant, he is supposed to sit. Secondary alert is when the dog changes its’ attitude. Salivation, excitement, and attempts at eye contact with the handler occur. The dogs are able to detect tiny amounts of accelerants; amounts that machines cannot even detect. The dogs are able to find accelerants easily, but the lab does the research.
It is important to remember the dog is not the final judge that decides whether a man goes to jail for starting a fire or arson. The dog is skilled at finding the accelerant. Today there are over 200 dog teams working in the US.
Arson dogs are used for different types of searches. They are:
· fire searches
· equipment searches
· vehicle searches
· crowd searches
· clothing searches
· area searches

In a fire scene search, an arson dog checks out a large area in half the time it would take a man, due to their keen sense of smell and their ability to cover a lot of ground.

In an equipment search, the dog's sense of smell - 200 times greater than a human nose - helps identify evidence from a possible arson crime scene.

Dogs are used in vehicle searches because an arsonist may carry the liquid into his car, where the dog can sniff them out. Their training allows them to distinguish these accelerants from normal car fluid scents.

In crowd searches, the dogs are used to sniff out arsonists in crowds because many arsonists like to return to the scene of their work to admire the fire. By walking the dog through the crowd, the dog may be able to sniff out the fire-starting fluids that may be on the arsonist’s clothes. This alone will not put someone in jail but the suspect can later be placed in a lineup and sniffed out by the dog.

Clothing searches are done once a suspect is identified. The dog is used to search the suspect's clothing in a lineup of clothes, so he can zoom in on a spot or two on the clothes.

In area searches, the dog is used to search large areas outside of the fire scene quickly, saving time. There may be physical evidence or accelerants left behind by the arsonist.

Despite all of the help the dog gives, he is not perfect. The dog is only a tool to help arson investigators locate the spots where the evidence lays. The dog alone cannot testify – it is up to their handlers and the arson investigators to make sure the dog’s findings are used in a valuable way, to catch and prove in court that the suspected arsonist is guilty.

Overall, using dogs is a huge benefit to finding the accelerants. They are better than humans. Despite this the dogs will never be as good as a skilled veteran arson investigator.

Read more about arson dogs and Hershey the arson dog at the NYS Department of State Kidsroom (http://www.dos.state.ny.us/kidsroom/firesafe/about.html)

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Training an arson dog








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A Day in the Life of Bara, the Bomb Sniffing Dog

http://library.thinkquest.org/CR0210580/graphics/bara.jpgBara and her handler were trained at a special military program at Lakeland Air Base in Texas. This program started in the mid 70's. Boston was one of the six cities first enlisted in the program.
Bara started her work very young; she was only a year old. The program uses a variety of dogs, such as German shepherds, Belgian malinois, Labrador retrievers and vizlas.
In this program a police officer/handler goes for a 3-month training in Texas. Once the training is completed the pair (dog and handler) go home for further work. They must work together for 6 months before they are officially certified to do real business.
The FAA (Federal Aviation Administration) will evaluate the team every year at airports to recertify the team.
On a typical day, Bara and her handler will make five or six checks for possible bombs on planes, in bags or in a vehicle. Bara gets a break just like most workers, but hers is not coffee! Usually she just gets to play for awhile.
Bomb sniffing dogs like Bara need frequent and consistent training to keep them sharp. Two days a week is dedicated to training. When bomb sniffing dogs get the scent of an explosive they are trained to sit in front of it and wait for their reward. Rewards are either toys or food depending on the dog.
Sometimes these dogs get to check places other than airports for bombs. Large concerts or sporting events are often places where these dogs are used. Places where dignitaries would be present are also quite often checked for bombs. Next time you are at an airport, think of Bara and the other bomb sniffing dogs who are helping to keep airplane travel safe.


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The U.S. State Department sent 6 trained canine dogs to Lebanon to sniff out deadly land mines. Some people call those dogs heroes. They are doing this to save human and animal lives. Do you wonder how they are doing this?
These dogs are called the "K9 Demining Corps." The dogs were trained in the United States. There are an estimated 100 million land mines buried land mines in 65 countries around the world. The dogs can find the odor of the explosives and then they stop and freeze on the spot. Then humans carefully detonate or defuse the mine so that no one is hurt.
These landmines are dangerous because they could be anywhere but they can't be seen because they are buried underground. People at risk are children walking to school or adults walking to the market. Animals are especially at risk. For every human killed by a mine, 20 to 50 animals are killed.
Most of these mine sniffing dogs are German Shepherds but they are trying to get other types of dogs trained as well. Dogs who have a good sense of smell and have good concentration can be trained easiest.




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http://library.thinkquest.org/CR0210580/graphics/startherd.jpgHerding is one of the oldest professions for dogs. There are several dogs that are still used today for herding. Some are the Border Collies, Australian Shepherds, the Bearded Collie and the Shetland Sheepdogs. Border Collies are the most popular of sheepdogs. They are easily trained and like to work.
If you don’t have work for the dog, it isn’t a good idea to get one. Otherwise they will get bored and they can become destructive. These dogs must exercise. Australian Shepherds are very much like Border Collies. They are commonly used for herding livestock. Their temper is like a Golden retriever or Labrador retriever, so they are also a good choice for a pet. They may have a strong desire to work but they still make a great pet. Shetland Sheepdogs can be considered a small version of a Border collie. They are pretty small but they make great companions in homes now but they still have a herding instinct.
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Border Collie
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Old English Sheepdog


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Bearded Collie






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http://library.thinkquest.org/CR0210580/graphics/Cat_fish.gif"Many people have high blood pressure for years without knowing it. Uncontrolled high blood pressure can lead to stroke, heart attack, congestive heart failure or kidney failure. The only way to tell if you have high blood pressure is to have your blood pressure checked. According to recent estimates, one in four U.S. adults has high blood pressure, but because there are no symptoms, nearly one-third of these people don't even know they have it. This is why high blood pressure is often called the "silent killer." Get the facts on high blood pressure and how to live a more heart-healthy life. Find out how you can reduce your risks for heart attack and stroke with proper monitoring by a physician and simple lifestyle changes, even if you have high blood pressure." Quoted from the American Heart Association Website
http://library.thinkquest.org/CR0210580/graphics/poodle.jpgIf you have high blood pressure you should think about having a pet, such as a dog, or a cat. Some psychologists feel that having a pet can help lower blood pressure. In a study at the State University of New York at Buffalo, it was found that stockbrokers that have the disease, hypertension (high blood pressure), could adopt a cat or a dog to lower their blood pressure. Doctors found that stress-induced blood pressure continued to rise in brokers with NO pet, even when they were treated with medication to lower their blood pressure. The brokers with pets also had a rise in blood pressure, but not as much as the brokers without pets. Based on this study, researchers conclude that drugs do help lower blood pressure but having a pet is better at helping to control stress-related increases in blood pressure. Some of the people in the study went out and got a pet after they learned of the benefits. No one is really sure why this is true. The feeling is that having someone on your side that you can count on and does not judge you is a great benefit to those in high stress jobs.






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September 11, 2001 is a day we will never forget. Our site is dedicated to those (both humans and animals) who died at the
World Trade Center and to those who helped save lives and find victims.
Many dogs helped out at the World Trade Center disaster. Of the more than 250 dogs there, five dogs died. Two fell from the rubble and three died from heat stroke.
The dogs at Ground Zero have been trained to detect the living as well as the dead from the rubble. They along with their human trainers suffer many injuries while searching through the rubble. The ASPCA along with other animal organizations set up triage units to care for the dogs. The triage unit cared for over 250 dogs during their time at the World Trade Center. The animals came from as far as Mississippi, Georgia and Canada. Veterinarians from all over the world called to say they would come if they were needed. Some were willing to drive 24 hours just to bring dog food and other supplies such as dog booties.
There are so many stories about this tragic day in our nation's history. We have included just a few. Our hearts go out to all who suffered losses and who witnessed this terrible event.


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The Intelligence of Dogs

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According to S. Coren, author of "The Intelligence of Dogs" (http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0553374524/intelligenofdogs), there are three types of dog intelligence:


Adaptive Intelligence (learning and problem-solving ability). This is specific to the individual animal and is measured by canine IQ tests.
Instinctive Intelligence. This is specific to the individual animal and is measured by canine IQ tests.
Working/Obedience Intelligence. This is breed dependent.


The Intelligence Ranking (http://petrix.com/dogint/intelligence.html)
Ranking of Dogs for Obedience/Working
Intelligence by Breed
Based on a dog trainer's survey.

Rank Characteristics 1-10 (http://petrix.com/dogint/1-10.html) Brightest Dogs 11-26 (http://petrix.com/dogint/11-26.html) Excellent Working Dogs 27-39 (http://petrix.com/dogint/27-39.html) Above Average Working Dogs 40-54 (http://petrix.com/dogint/40-54.html) Average Working/Obedience Intelligence 55-69 (http://petrix.com/dogint/55-69.html) Fair Working/Obedience Intelligence 70-79 (http://petrix.com/dogint/70-79.html) Lowest Degree of Working/Obedience Intelligence





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2,000 Dog Names

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Naming Your Puppy


Image:The name you choose says as much about you as it does about your dog. It shows how you view your dog and your relationship with it. Some names can cause people to judge a dog and react positively or negatively/fearfully when meeting it. Depending on whether the dog is a pet, therapy dog, search & rescue dog, tracking dog or any other dog that works with the public, it is important to use a name that conveys the proper image. Happy searching!
Popularity:The most popular dog name in North America is Sam, Sammie or Samantha (which means "listener"). The second most popular is Max, Maxie, Maxwell or Maxine (which means "the greatest" in Latin). Third is Lady, followed by Bear, Maggie, Buddy, Tasha, Chelsea (or Chelsie), Holly and Shasta. Other very popular names are Brandy, Ginger and Taffy.
Trend in Canine Names Reflects the Times (http://petrix.com/dognames/examiner.html): Article from the San Francisco Examiner.










The List -A



























A CAPPELLA
ABBY
ABEL
ABERCROMBIE
ABRACADABRA
ACE
ACHILLES
ACTION
ADMIRAL
ADONIS
ADRIATIC
AESOP
AFFINITY
AJAX
AKIRA
ALADDIN
ALASTAIR
ALCATRAZ
ALCHEMY
ALDO
ALEXIA
ALFALFA
ALGER
ALI BABA
ALLEGRO
ALOYSIUS
ALPACA
ALPHA
ALPINE
AMABLE
AMARETTO
AMAZON
AMBASSADOR
AMBER
AMBROSIA
AMETHYST
AMIGO
AMMO
AMORE
AMOS
AMPERSAND
ANACONDA
ANAIS
ANASTASIA
ANDALUSIA
ANDORRA
ANDROID
ANDROMEDA
ANGEL
ANGSTROM
ANGUS
ANIMAL
APACHE
APOGEE
APOLLO
APPRENTICE
APRIL
AQUARIUS
ARAPAHO
ARCHIE
ARES
ARGUS
ARI
ARIEL
ARIES
ARISTOTLE
ARMANI
ARMSTRONG
ARTY
ASHES
ASIA
ASPEN
ASPHALT
ASSET
ASTRO
ASYLUM
ATHENA
ATLANTIS
ATLAS
ATOM
ATTICUS
ATTILA
AUDACITY
AUDITOR
AUGUST
AUGUSTUS
AUREOLE
AURORA
AUSSIE
AUSTIN
AUTOBAHN
AUTUMN
AVALANCHE
AVALON
AVANTI
AVIS
AXLE


>>>www.petrix.com

[euqinimod]

The List - B



B.B.
BABA
BABBIT
BABE
BABETTE
BABIRUSA
BABS
BABUSHKA
BABY
BABY-DOLL
BABY-FACE
BABYKINS
BACCARAT
BACCHUS
BACH
BACI
BACON
BADGER
BAGUETTE
BAHAMA MAMA
BAILEY
BAJA
BALBOA
BALDRIC
BALDWIN
BALDY
BALI
BALLERINA
BAM-BAM
BAMBI
BAMBINO
BAMBOOZLER
BANDANNA
BANDIT
BANDITO
BANGLE
BANJO
BANNER
BANQUO
BANSHEE
BANZAI
BARBARIAN
BARBARINO
BARFLY
BARNACLE
BARNEY
BARON
BAROQUE
BART
BARTHOLOMEW
BARTON
BASEL
BASHFUL
BASIL
BASS
BAXTER
BAYOU
BAZOOKA
BEACHBABY
BEACHCOMBER
BEAMER
BEANS
BEAR
BEARLOCK HOLMES
BEAU
BEAUCOUP
BEAUREGARD
BEAUTY
BEDOUIN
BEEFEATER
BEELZEBUB
BEEPER
BEETHOVEN
BEETLEJUICE
BEGONIA
BELLA MIA
BELLADONNA
BELLBOY
BELLE
BELUGA
BEN
BENGAL
BENJI
BENNINGTON
BENTLEY
BEOWOOF
BERBER
BERET
BERTHA
BESSIE
BETA
BETTY BOOP
BEULAH
BEWITCHED
BIALY
BIANCO or BIANCA
BIDDY (BRIDGET)
BIG BOY
BIG DIPPER
BIG TIME
BIGFOOT
BIJOU
BIKER
BIKO
BIMBO
BINA
BINGO
BIRDY
BISHOP
BISMARCK
BITS
BIZZY
BLACKBIRD
BLACKIE
BLACKJACK
BLANCHE
BLAZE
BLIMP
BLITZEN
BLONDIE
BLOSSOM
BLOTTO
BLUBBER
BLUE
BLUEBERRY
BLUEPRINT
BLUES
BLUNDER
BOA
BOB
BOBO
BOCA
BOCCACCIO
BODACIOUS
BOGART or BOGIE
BOGEYMAN
BOHEMIAN
BOJANGLES
BOLERO
BOLL WEEVIL
BOLLA
BOLOGNA
BOMBSHELL
BONBON
BOND
BONES
BONFIRE
BONGO
BONO
BONSAI
BOOBER
BOO
BOO-BOO
BOOGABOO
BOOGIE-WOOGIE
BOOKER
BOOKIE
BOOM-BOOM
BOOMER
BOONE
BOOTS
BOOZER
BORA
BORIS
BORSCHT
BOSS
BOSSMAN
BOUBIE or BOUBA
BOUFFANT
BOUGAINVILLEA
BOUNCER
BOUQUET
BOXER
BOY
BOZ
BOZO
BRADSTREET
BRAIN
BRAINCHILD
BRAINDEAD
BRANDO
BRANDY
BRANDYWINE
BRASSY
BRAT
BRATWURST (BRAUTTY)
BRAVO
BREATHLESS MAHONEY
BREW
BREWSKY
BRIE
BRIER
BRIT
BRITTANY
BROADWAY
BRONCO
BRONSON
BRONTË
BROUHAHA
BROWN SUGAR
BROWNIE
BRUIN
BRUNHILDA
BRUNO
BRUTUS
BUBBA
BUBBLES
BUCCANEER
BUCK
BUCKAROO
BUCKEYE
BUCKHEAD
BUCKINGHAM
BUCKO
BUCKSHOT
BUCKWHEAT
BUD
BUDDY
BUFFOON
BUFFY
BUG
BUGINARUG
BUGSY
BUGTUSSIE
BUICK
BULLET
BULLFACE
BULLION
BULLWINKLE
BUM
BUMPER
BUMPKIN
BUNK
BUNNY
BURGER
BURGUNDY
BURLY
BURMA
BURP
BUSTER
BUTCH
BUTKUS
BUTTER
BUTTERBALL
BUTTERCUP
BUTTERMILK
BUTTERSCOTCH
BUTTS
BUZZ
BUZZARD
BYRON
BYTE


www.petrix.com (http://www.petrix.com/)

[euqinimod]

the list C

C.C.
C.E.O.
CABARET
CABO
CABOODLE
CABOOSE
CADBURY
CADDY
CADENCE
CADET
CADILLAC
CAESAR
CAGNEY
CAIRO
CAJUN
CALAMITY
CALIBER
CALICO
CALIFORNIA
CALLOWAY
CALVIN
CALYPSO
CAMELOT
CAMEMBERT
CAMEO
CAMUS
CANDY
CANIS
CAPER
CAPO
CAPONE
CAPRICORN
CAPTAIN
CARAMBA
CARAMEL
CARAMELO
CARGO
CARIBOU
CARNATION
CAROB
CAROLINA
CARRAWAY
CASANOVA
CASBAH
CASEY
CASH
CASHMERE
CASINO
CASPAR
CASPER
CASPIAN
CASSIDY
CASSIE (CASSANDRA)
CASSIS
CASSIUS
CASTAWAY
CATALINA
CATAMARAN
CAVIAR
CAYENNE
CECIL
CECILY
CERBERUS
C'EST MOI
CHA SU BAO
CHABLIS
CHA-CHA
CHALET
CHALLENGER
CHAMBRAY
CHAMOIS
CHAMPAGNE
CHAMPION
CHANEL
CHANTILLY
CHAOS
CHAPLIN
CHARADE
CHARLOTTE
CHARMER
CHAUCER
CHAUFFEUR
CHAYA
CHECCA
CHECK
CHECKERS
CHEDDAR
CHEERLEADER
CHEETAH
CHEKHOV
CHELSEA
CHERUB
CHESTER
CHEWBACCA
CHEW-CHEW
CHEWY
CHEYENNE
CHIANTI
CHIC
CHICLET
CHICO
CHICORY
CHIEF
CHIFFON
CHILI
CHINA
CHINA DOLL
CHINCHILLA
CHIN-CHIN
CHIP
CHIPMUNK
CHIPPER
CHIPS
CHIQUITA
CHIVAS
CHLOE
CHO MEIN
CHOCOLATA
CHOCOLATE
CHOCTAW
CHOLO
CHOO-CHOO
CHOPIN
CHOPPER
CHOPSTICKS
CHORIZO
CHOTCHKE
CHOWDER
CHUBBY
CHUBFISH
CHUMP
CHUNK
CHUNKY
CHURCHILL
CHUTNEY
CHUTZPA
CIAO
CIMARRON
CINDER
CINNAMON
CINNAMON BEAR
CIRCE
CISCO
CITRON
CITRUS
CLASSY
CLEMENTINE
CLEO
CLICHÉ
CLIPPER
CLONE
CLOVER
CLYDE
COCONUT
COCOPUFF
CODY
COGNAC
COLA
COLONEL
COLT
COMET
COMPADRE
CONAN
CONDOR
CONFECTION
CONFETTI
CONFUCIUS
CONGA
CONGO
CONJURER
COOKIE
COOKIE MONSTER
COON
COOTER
COPPER
COQUETTE
CORAL
CORAZON
CORDIAL
CORDOBA
CORI
CORKY
CORONA
CORONET
CORY
COSMO(POLITAN)
COUCH POTATO (TATTI)
COUNT
COURVOISIER
COUSCOUS
COUSTEAU
COWBOY
COWGIRL
CRACKER
CRANBERRY
CRASH
CRAWDAD
CRAWFORD
CRESCENT
CRICKET
CRIER
CRIMSON
CRISTYL
CRITTER
CROCKETT
CROCUS
CROISSANT
CROMWELL
CROUTON
CRUISER
CRUMB
CRUMPET
CRUNCHER
CRUSADER
CRUSOE
CRYBABY
CRYSTAL
CUBBY
CUCARACHA
CUCINA
CUCKOO
CUDDLES
CUERVO
CUPCAKE
CURIOUS GEORGE
CURLY
CURMUDGEON
CURRY
CUTIE
CUTIE PIE
CYPRESS
CYRANO
CZAR


>>http://petrix.com

[euqinimod]

The List - D


DA VINCI
DAGWOOD
DAIQUIRI
DAISY
DAKOTA
DALI
DALLAS
DAMAGE
DAMSEL
DANCER
DANDELION
DANK
DANTE
DANU
DANUBE
DAPHNE
DAREDEVIL
DARTH VADER
DASH
DASHER
DAWN
DAZZLER
DEBUTANTE
DEEOGEE
DEGAS
DÉJÀ VU
DELILAH
DELTA
DERBY
DESDEMONA
DESIREE
DESOTO
DESPERADO
DETONATOR
DETOUR
DEUCE
DEVIL
DEW
DEXEDRINE
DIABLO
DIAMOND
DICE
DICKENS
DIDDLEY
DIDI
DIGBY
DIGGER
DIM SUM
DINGO
DINO
DIVA
DIVOT
DIXIE
DIZZY
DOC
DODGER
DODO
DOGLET
DOGZILLA
DOHENY
DOLCE or DULCE
DOLLY
DOMINO
DON
DONNER
DOODLE
DOOGIE
DOOLITTLE
DOONESBURY
DOTS
DOUBLE-O-SEVEN
DOUGH-BOY
DOZER
DR. WHO
DRACO
DRAGON
DRAMBUIE
DREADNOUGHT
DREAMER
DREAMWEAVER
DROOPY
DRUMMER
DUBONNET
DUCHESS
DUDE
DUDETTE
DUDLEY
DUFFY
DUGONG
DUKE
DUMPLING
DUN
DUNCAN
DUNK
DURANGO
DUSTMOP
DUSTY
DWEEB
DYLAN
DYNAMITE
DYNAMO



www.petrix.com

[euqinimod]

The List - E


E.T.
EBI
EBONY
ECHO
ECLIPSE
EDELWEISS
EDGE
EGGO
EINSTEIN
ELF
ELIAS
ELMER
ELMO
ELROY
ELSA
ELVIRA
ELVIS
EMERALD
EMERSON
EMILY
EMMA
ENCHILADA
ENERGIZER
ENZO
EPCOT
EPIC
EPSTEIN
EQUITY
ERROL
ESCAPADE
ESCORT
ESKIMO
ESPRIT
ESPRESSO
EUPHRATES
EUREKA
EUROPA
EWOK
EXCALIBUR
EXETER



>>>www.petrix.com

[euqinimod]

The List - F


FABLE
FACE
FAJITA
FALAFEL
FALCON
FANCY
FANDANGO
FANG
FANTASIA
FATAL BEAUTY
FATS
FATSO
FATTY
FAUST
FAUX PAS
FEDORA
FELIX
FENDER (BENDER)
FENNEL
FENWAY
FERDINAND
FERREO
FIDO
FIESTA
FIFI
FIGARO
FIJI
FIKRI
FINK
FINN
FIREBUG
FIRECRACKER
FISHBONE
FIZZ
FLANNEL
FLAPPER
FLASH
FLETCH
FLEUR
FLICKER
FLING
FLIPPER
FLIRT
FLORA or FAUNA
FLOWER
FLOYD
FLUFFY
FLURRY
FLUSH
FLY GIRL
FOIE GRAS
FONDUE
FONZI
FOOTBALL
FORMOSA
FOXY
FRANKENSTEIN
FRANKIE
FRAZIER
FRECKLES
FREEBIE
FREEWAY
FREUD
FRIAR TUCK
FRIDAY
FRISBEE
FRISKY
FRITZ
FROGGY
FROSTY
FU MAN CHU
FU MING CHU
FUCHSIA
FUDD
FUDDLES
FUDGE
FUNGUS
FUNKY
FUNNYGIRL
FURBALL
FURFACE
FURIOSO
FURR
FUZZIE



--petrix.com

[euqinimod]

The List - G

GAELIC
GALILEO
GAMBLER
GARBO
GARGOYLE
GARLIC
GARP
GATEKEEPER
GATOR
GATSBY
GAVIN
GAZELLE
GAZPACHO
GECKO
GEEKIE
GEEZER
GEISHA
GEMINI
GENESIS
GENGHIS
GENIE
GENIUS
GEORGIA
GEPPETTO
GERBIL
GERONIMO
GERTRUDE
GHIRADELLI
GHOSTBUSTER
GIDDY
GIDEON
GIDGET
GIGGLES
GIGI
GIGOLO
GILLIGAN
GIMP
GIN
GINGER
GINGERSNAP
GINGHAM
GINSENG
GIPPER
GIRL
GIRLFRIEND
GIRO
GISELLE
GIZMO
GLADSTONE
GNOME
GOBBLE
GOBLIN
GODFATHER
GODZILLA
GOETHE
GOLDIE
GOLDILOCKS
GOLIATH
GOMER
GOOBER
GOOCH
GOOMBA
GOOSE
GOPHER
GORDO
GORGEOUS
GORILLA
GORKY
GOUDA
GRACE
GRANDEUR
GRAZIE
GREMLIN
GRETEL
GREYSTOKE
GRITS
GRIZZLY
GROUCHO
GROVER
GRUMPUS
GRUMPY
GRUNGE
GRUNION
GRUNT
GUAYMAS
GUCCI
GUFFAW
GUIDO
GUINEVERE
GULLIVER
GUMBALL
GUMBO
GUMBY
GUMDROP
GUMMIE BEAR
GUMPS
GUNG HO
GUNNER
GUNTHER
GURU
GUS
GUSSY
GUSTO
GUY
GYPSY
GYRO


--petrix.com

[euqinimod]

The List - H


HACHI-KO
HACKI-SACK
HALCYON
HALEY
HAM
HAMLET
HAMMER
HANCOCK
HANDSOME
HANNIBAL (the Cannibal)
HANSEL
HAPPY
HAPPY FEET
HARD ROCK
HARDY
HARLEY
HARMONY
HARPO
HARVEY
HASKELL
HAVANA
HAVOC
HAWK
HAWKEYE
HAZER
HEARTBREAKER
HEARTS
HEATHCLIFF
HEATHER
HEAVEN
HEDGEHOG
HEFTY
HEIDI
HEIRESS
HERCULES
HERMAN
HERMES
HERMIT
HERO
HERSHEY
HICKORY
HILDA
HIPPO
HIPPODROME
HISTORIA
HOAGIE
HOBBIT
HOBO
HOCUS-POCUS
HOG
HOLLY
HOLLYWOOD
HOMEBOY
HOMER
HOMEY
HONCHO
HONEY
HONEY BEAR
HONEYBEE
HONEYSUCKLE ROSE
HONKY-TONK
HOOCH
HOOD
HOOFMAN
HOOK
HOOLIGAN
HOOSIER
HOOVER
HOPE
HORACE
HORATIO
HORS D'OUVRES
HORSHACK
HORUS
HOT DOG
HOTSHOT
HOUDINI
HOWARD
HOWLER
HUBBA HUBBA
HUBBLE
HUCK
HUDSON
HUGGER-MUGGER
HUGO
HULK
HUMDINGER
HUMPHREY
HUNTER
HUNTRESS
HURRICANE
HYDE



>>>petrix.com

[euqinimod]

The List - I

ICARUS
ICEMAN
ICE-T
ICON
IDA
IDITAROD
IGGY
IGLOO
IGNATIUS
IGOR
INCA
INDIANA
INDIE
INDIGO
INFINITY
INKY
INTELECTUS
INTREPID
IODINE
IOTA
IRA
IRIE
IRIS
IRRESISTIBLE
ISABELLE
ISHTA
ISHTAR
ISIS
IVY


-petrix.com

[euqinimod]

The List - J

J.B.
J.F.K.
JABBERWOCKY
JACK DANIEL'S
JACKPOT
JADE
JAG
JAI ALAI
JAILBAIT
JAKE
JALAPEÑO
JAMAICA
JAMES DEAN
JASMINE
JASPER
JAVA
JAZZ
JE T'AIME
JED
JEDI
JEKYLL
JELLY BEAN
JELLY-BELLY
JEMIMA
JERKY
JERSEY
JESSE
JET
JETHRO
JEZEBEL
JIGSAW
JINGLES
JINX
JITTERBUG
JOKER
JOY
JUBILEE
JUDGE
JUGHEAD
JULEP
JULIET
JUMBO
JUNE
JUNIOR
JUNIPER
JUPITER
JUSTUS


-petrix.com

[euqinimod]

The List - K

K.O.
K-9
KAFKA
KAHLUA
KAISER
KALAMAZOO
KALEIDOSCOPE
KANDINSKY
KARMA
KATMANDU
KAYLE
KEEPERS
KELLOGG
KENO
KENTUCKY
KENYA
KERMIT
KEWPIE
KIBBLES
KID
KIELBASA
KIKI
KIKU
KILLER
KILO
KIMBUNDU
KING
KING KONG
KINKO
KIPLING
KISSES
KIWI
KLONDIKE
KLUTZ
KNAIDEL
KNICKERBOCKER
KNOCKOUT
KNUCKLES
KOALA
KOBI
KODA
KOKO
KONA
KOOKABURRA
KOOL
KORBEL
KOSMIC
KOSMO
KRISPY
KRYPTONITE
KUDU
KUJO
KUMA

The List - L

LABYRINTH
LACEY
LADRON
LADY
LAKER
LAMBCHOP
LAMBORGHINI
LANCELOT
LASER
LASHES
LASSIE
LAVENDER
LAZARUS
LEILA
LEMON
LEO
LEVI
LEXIS
LIABILITY
LIBERTY
LICKUMS
LIEBCHEN
LIGHTNING
LIGHTNING BUG
LILAC
LILITH
LIMBO
LINK
LINUS
LION
LIONHEART
LIPS
LIRA
LISBON
LITMUS
LITTLE BIT
LITTLE GUY
LITTLE ONE
LIZARD
LOBO
LOLA
LOLITA
LOLLY
LOONY
LOTUS
LOVE-BUG
LOVE-PIG
LOVER
LOVERBOY
LOVERGIRL
LOVESONG
LOVEY
LOVEY DOVEY
LUCKY
LUDWIG
LULLABY
LULU
LUNATIC


-petrix.com

[euqinimod]

The List - M

MAC
MAC-ATTACK
MACBETH
MACHETE
MACHIAVELLI
MACHO
MACINTOSH
MACKEREL
MACMILLAN
MAD MAX
MADAME BUTTERFLY
MADURO
MAESTRO
MAFIOSO
MAGGIE
MAGIC
MAGNA
MAGNET
MAGNOLIA
MAGNUM
MAGPIE
MAHIMAHI
MAHOGANY
MAI TAI
MAILMAN
MAJESTIC
MAJOR
MAKO
MALCOLM
MAMACITA
MAMBA
MAMBO
MAMIE
MANCHU
MANDY
MANHATTAN
MANNERS
MAPLE SYRUP
MARASCHINO
MARAUDER
MARBLE
MARDI GRAS
MARIACHI
MARIE ANTOINETTE
MARIGOLD
MARILYN
MARLBORO
MARLEY
MARMADUKE
MARMALADE
MARQUEE
MARSHMALLOW
MARTIAN
MARTINI
MATADOR
MATILDA
MATISSE
MATOK
MATTIE
MATZO
MAUI
MAVERICK
MAX
MAY
MAYA
MAYHEM
MAYNARD
MAZEL TOV
McCOY
ME TOO
MEADOW
MEATLOAF
MEDEA
MEDUSA
MEE-KROB
MELANGE
MELLOW
MELODY
MELON-HEAD
MELVIN
MENAGE
MERCEDES
MERLIN
MESQUITE
METIS
METRO
MIATA
MICKEY
MIDAS
MIDGET
MIDNIGHT
MIGNON
MILES
MINERVA
MING
MINK
MINNIE
MIRÓ
MISERY
MISHA
MISSIE
MISSING LINK
MISTLETOE
MOCHA
MOET
MOGUL
MOHAVE
MOHAWK
MOHICAN
MO-JO
MOLE
MON AMI
MON CHER or MA CHERIE
MONA
MONA LISA
MONGOOSE
MONK
MONKEY
MONTEGO
MONTY
MOOCHY
MOODY
MOONBEAM
MOONDANCE
MOONGODDESS
MOONMIST
MOONRAKER
MOONSHINE
MOONSTRUCK
MOOSE
MOPSY
MOPTOP
MORK
MOROCCO
MORRIS
MORTIMER
MOSELLE
MOUSTACHE
MOUTON
MOVADO
MOXIE
MOZART
MU SHU
MUDD
MUDDLES
MUDPIE
MUENSTER
MUFFIN
MUG
MUGSY
MULBERRY
MUMBLES
MUNCHER
MUNCHKIN
MUNCHYKIN
MUSE
MUSTANG
MUTANT
MUTT
MYSTIC
MYTH


--petrix.com


note: MIMI is not here.. hmmm.. the name Mimi means "faithful guard" in French.. I think it's a good name for a dog..


~Euqinimod

[euqinimod]

The List - N

NACHO
NAIROBI
NAPA
NAPOLEON
NAPPY
NAVAJO
NAVAR
NAVIGATOR
NELLIE
NEON
NEPTUNE
NEUTRON
NEWSPRINT
NEWT
NEWTON
NIBBLES
NICKLEBY
NICKLES
NIETZSCHE
NIFTY
NIGHTMARE
NIKE
NIKITA
NIKO
NINA
NINJA
NIPPER
NISSAN
NISTKA
NITRO
NOAH
NOEL
NOISEMAKER
NOISETTE
NOMAD
NOSFERATU
NOVA
NOVELLA
NUDGE
NUDNIK
NUGGET
NUTMEG
NYMPH


The List - O

O.J.
O.T.M.
OBERON
ODYSSEY
OINK
OKIE
OKRA
OL' SPORT
OLD YELLER
OLIVER
OLLIE
OMEGA
ONOMATOPOEIA
ONYX
OOGA-BOOGA
OPAL
OPHELIA
ORBIT
OREO
ORION
ORPHAN ANNIE
OSCAR
OTHELLO
OTIS
OTTO
OUIJA
OUTLAW
OUTRIGGER
OUZO
OX
OZ
OZONE
OZZIE


The List - P

PACHYDERM
PACO
PADDINGTON
PADDY
PADUA
PAGAN
PAGODA
PAISLEY
PAL
PALOMA
PALOMINO
PANACHE
PANAMA
PANDA
PANDEMONIUM
PANDORA
PANSY
PANTHER
PAPILLON
PAPOOSE
PAPRIKA
PAPU
PAPYRUS
PARADISE
PARAGON
PARIS
PATCHES
PÂTÉ
PATHFINDER
PATRIOT
PATSY
PATTON
PAUPER
PAVLOV
PAWS
PAZZO
PEABODY
PEACHES
PEANUTS
PEASEBLOSSOM
PEBBLES
PEEWEE
PENELOPE
PENN
PENNE
PEPE
PEPPER
PEPPERMINT
PERITAR
PERIWINKLE
PERNOD
PERRO
PERSEPHONE
PERSEUS
PESO
PEST
PETIT ANGE
PETRA
PETRARCH
PETULIA
PETUNIA
PEUGEOT
PEYOTE
PHANTOM
PHARAOH
PHAROS
PHOENIX
PIAZZA
PICASSO
PICCOLO
PICKLES
PICKWICK
PIEDMONT
PIGGLES-WIGGLES
PIGGY
PIGGY-WIGGY
PING
PINKY
PINOCCHIO
PINTO
PIPER
PIPPI
PIRANHA
PIRATE
PIROUETTE
PISCES
PISTOL
PISTON
PIT-STOP
PITTER-PATTER
PIZZAZZ
PLATO
PLATTY (PLATYPUS)
PLAYGIRL
PLUTO
POCO
POET
POGO
POINDEXTER
POKERFACE
POLITIX
POLLY
POLO
POLTERGEIST
POM-POM
PONG
PONGO
POOCH
POOH
POOH-BAH
POOKIE
POP
POPEYE
PORKCHOP
PORKER
PORSCHE
PORTIA
PORTLY
POTPOURRI
POUILLY-FUISSÉ
PRANCER
PRECIOUS
PRESIDENT
PRESTO
PRETTIPAWS
PRETTY
PRETTY BABY
PRETZEL
PRIMA DONNA
PRIMO
PRINCE or PRINCESS
PRISSY
PRODIGY
PROFESSOR
PROTON
PRUDENCE
PUCK
PUDDING
PUDDLES
PUDGE
PUDGETTE
PUFF
PUFFBALL
PUGNOSE
PUMPKIN
PUNCH
PUNK
PUPA
PUPPY
PUTT-PUTT
PYGMY


--petrix.com

[euqinimod]

The List -Q

QANTAS
QUASI
QUASIMODO
QUEEN BEE
QUEENY
QUICHE
QUICK
QUICKSILVER
QUINCY
QUIRK
QUIXOTE

The List -R


RADAR
RAGDOLL
RAGE
RAGGEDY ANN
RAGING BULL
RAGMOP
RAGS
RAGTIME
RAGU
RAIDER
RAIN
RAINBOW
RAISIN
RAJAH
RALPH
RAMBO
RANGER
RASCAL
RASSELAS
RASTA
RAVEL
RAVEN
RAWHIDE
RAY
RAZZ
RAZZMATAZZ
REBEL
RED or REDHEAD
REDBEARD
REEBOK
REEF
REGALO
REM
REMINGTON
REMY
RENEGADE
RENO
REPO
REUBEN
REX
RHAPSODY
RHEA
RHETT
RHINESTONE
RHINO
RHODES
RHONE
RICHES
RICKY-TICKY-TAVI
RICOCHET
RICOTTA
RIDER
RIFFRAFF
RIN TIN TIN
RINGLEADER
RINGO
RIO
RIP VAN WINKLE
RIPLEY
RIPPLE
RITZ or RITZY
ROACH
ROB ROY
ROCCA
ROCK
ROCKER
ROCKET
ROCKO or ROCKY
ROCOCO
RODEO
ROGAN
ROGUE
ROJO
ROLLS
ROMA
ROMEO
ROMULUS
RONDEAU
ROO (KANGAROO)
ROOKIE
ROOSTER
ROOT BEER
ROSARITA
ROSCOE
ROSEBUD
ROSIE
ROT
ROTHSCHILD
ROTTEN
ROVER
ROWDY
ROXANNE
ROXY
ROYAL
RUBY
RUFF
RUFFIAN
RUFFLES
RUFUS
RUGRAT
RUMPELSTILTSKIN
RUNNER
RUNT
RUPERT
RUSTY


The List - S

SABBATH
SABER
SABER-TOOTH
SABLE
SADIE
SAFARI
SAFFRON
SAGA
SAGE
SAHARA
SAILOR
SAKE
SALAMANDER (MANDY)
SALSA
SALTY
SALVATORE
SAM
SAMBUCA
SAM-I-AM
SAMMY
SAMSON
SAMURAI
SAND RAT
SANDMAN
SANGRIA
SANTA FE
SANTINI
SANTO
SAPPHIRE
SARASOTA
SARGE
SASHA
SASHIMI
SASQUATCH
SASSAFRAS
SASSY
SATAY
SATCHMO
SATIN
SAUCE or SAUCY
SAUSAGE
SAVAGE
SAVANNAH
SAVERNAKE
SAVOY
SCAMPER
SCAMPI
SCARBOROUGH
SCARLET
SCHATZE
SCHMOO
SCHMOOZE
SCHNAPPS
SCHNOOK
SCHOONER
SCHWARZKOPF
SCHWEPPES
SCINTILLA
SCOOBIE
SCOOTER
SCORPIO
SCOTCH
SCOUNDREL
SCOUT
SCRAPPY
SCRAPPY TOO
SCROOGE
SCRUFFY
SCRUMPTIOUS
SCUBA
SCUD
SCYLLA
SEA DOG
SEABREEZE
SEAL
SENECA
SERA
SERENADE
SERENDIPITY
SERENGETI
SERGEANT
SEUSS
SEYCHELLES
SEYMOUR
SHADOW
SHAH
SHAKESPEARE
SHALIMAR
SHAMROCK
SHAMU
SHANE
SHANGRI-LA
SHARKEY
SHARP
SHAWNEE
SHEBA
SHE-DEVIL
SHEER
SHEIK
SHELLEY
SHENANIGANS
SHERIFF
SHERLOCK
SHERWOOD
SHIITAKE
SHIKSA
SHIM SHIM SHIREE
SHIVA
SHOELESS
SHOGUN
SHOOTER
SHORTY, SHORTCAKE or SHORTSTACK
SHOTGUN
SHOWBOAT
SHOWOFF
SHRAMSBERG
SHRAPNEL
SHREDDER
SHRIMP
SHYLOCK
SICILIANO
SIDEWAYS
SIDNEY
SIEGFRIED
SIENNA
SIERRA
SIGMUND
SILHOUETTE
SILKY
SILVER
SILVERSPOON
SIMPLY RED
SIN
SINATRA
SINBAD
SINCLAIR
SINGER
SISSY
SITTING BULL
SIX TOES
SKEDADDLE
SKEEDER
SKIDDER
SKIPPER
SKIPPY
SKITTLES
SKY
SKY HAWK
SKYROCKET
SKYWALKER
SLATE
SLEESTACK
SLICKER
SLIPPERS
SLOBBER-PUSS
SLOTH
SLUGGER
SLY
SMASHER
SMOKEY
SMOOCHER
SMORES
SNAGGLETOOTH
SNAKER
SNAP
SNARL
SNEAKERS
SNEEZY
SNICKERS
SNIFFER
SNIFFLES
SNIFTER
SNOCAP
SNOOGYBEAR
SNOOKER
SNOOKS
SNOOKUMS
SNOOPER
SNOOPY
SNOOTY
SNO-PEA
SNORTER
SNOW, SNOWBALL or SNOWFLAKE
SNOWBERRY
SNOWBUNNY
SNOWMAN
SNUFFLES
SNUGGLES or SNUGGLE-PUSS
SOCKS
SOCRATES
SOLEIL
SOLO
SOLOMON
SOLSTICE
SONATA
SOONER
SOPHIE
SORBET
SORCERER or SORCERESS
SOUEEE
SOURDOUGH
SOUTHERN COMFORT
SOUTHPAW
SPADES
SPAGHETTI
SPAGO
SPAM
SPANKY
SPARKEY or SPARKLE
SPARKPLUG
SPARROW
SPECS
SPEEDY
SPELLBINDER
SPHINX
SPICY
SPIDER
SPIKE
SPINNER
SPIRIT
SPITFIRE
SPLASH
SPOCK
SPOOKY
SPORT
SPOT
SPRITE
SPUDS
SPUMANTI
SPUNKY
SPUTNIK
SPY
SPYRO
SQUAT
SQUEAKY
SQUID
SQUIRT
STAR
STARDUST or STARLIGHT
STARGAZER
STARLET
STELLA
STELLAR
STERLING
STETSON
STING
STINKER or STINKER BELLE
STINKY
STOLI
STONEY
STORM or STORMY
STOWAWAY
STRAY
STREGA
STRUDEL
STUBBY or STUBBLES
STUMP
SUGAR
SUGARBABY
SUGARBAKER
SUGAR-PLUM
SUKIYAKI
SULFUR
SULTAN
SUMO
SUNDANCE
SUNDOWN
SUNI
SUNKISS
SUNNYBROOK
SUNRISE
SUNSHINE
SUPERTRAMP
SUSHI
SUSSUDIO
SWAMI
SWAMPY
SWEATHOG
SWEET CHEEKS
SWEET PEA
SWEETHEART, SWEETIE or SWEETNESS
SWIZZLE
SYMPHONY
SYNERGY


--petrix.com

[euqinimod]

The List - T

T.L.C.
T.N.T.
TABOO
TABRIZ
TAFFY
TAG
TAHITI
TALAHACHE
TALISMAN
TALLYHO
TAMAHTO
TAMARA
TAMPEST
TANG
TANGO
TANK
TANKA
TANNER
TAO
TAOS
TAR
TARA
TARGA
TARO
TAROT
TARRAGON
TARTINE
TARTUFFE
TARZAN
TATTERS
TATTLETALE
TATTOO
TAURUS
TAUSKEY
TAXI
TAZ
TAZER
T-BONE
TEACUP
TEAL
TEASE or TEASER
TENNESSEE
TEQUILA
TERMINATOR
TERRA-COTTA
TERROR
TESS
TESTAROSSA
TEXAS
THAI
THATCHER
THOR
THORN or THISTLE
THUDPAW
THUMPER
THUNDER
THYME
TI AMO
TIARA
TIE-DYE
TIGER
TIGGER
TILLY
TINKER
TINKERBELL
TINKERTOY
TINKLE BELL
TINMAN
TINSEL
TINY
TIPSY
TISSOT
TITAN
TITIAN
TIZZY or TIZZ
TOAD
TOBY
TOFU
TOMAHAWK
TOMBA
TOM-TOM
TONTO
TOOTER
TOOTSIE
TOPAZ
TOREADOR
TORNADO
TORO
TORTS
TOTO
TOUCHÉ
TOVA
TOYBOX
TRAILBLAZER
TRAMP
TREAT
TREKKY
TRICKY
TRILOGY
TRINKET
TRIP
TRIXIE
TROJAN
TROLL
TROPICANA
TROUBADOUR
TROUBLE
TROUPER
TROUT
TRUFFAUT
TRUFFLEHUNTER
TRUFFLES
TRUMP
TRURMAN
TRYST
TSUNAMI
TUBBO (also TUBBY or TUBS)
TUFFY
TUGBOAT
TULIP
TUMBLEWEED
TUNA
TUNDRA
TURBO
TURKEY
TUTTI-FRUTTI
TUTU
TWEETY
TWERP
TWINKIE
TWINKLE
TWISTER
TYCOON
TYPHOON


The List - U

UDO
UFO
UGLY-BUGLY
ULYSSES
ULANOVA
UMA
UMPA LUMPA
UNAGI
UNCLE SAM
URANUS
URCHIN
URIEL
URSA
URSULA
USHKI
UTOPIA

The List - V

VACA
VAGABOND
VALENTINE
VALENTINO
VAN GOGH
VAN-DAMME
VANILLA
VAQUERO
VEGGIE
VELCRO
VELVET
VENUS
VENUS DE MILO
VERONA
VICHYSSOISE
VIOLET
VIPER
VISA
VIVA
VIXEN
VOLTAIRE
VOODOO
VOYAGER
VROOM VROOM

The List - W

WACKY
WADDLES
WAG-A-LOT
WAGS
WALDO
WALLFLOWER
WALRUS
WANDA
WARHOL
WARLOCK
WARRIOR
WARTHOG
WASABE
WEB
WELLINGTON
WHIRLWIND
WHISKEY
WHISPER or WHISPERWIND
WHOOPIE
WIGGLES
WILBUR
WILD THING
WILDWOOD
WILFRED
WILHELMINA
WILLOUGHBY
WILLOW
WILSON
WIMPY
WINDJAMMER
WINDSOR
WINDY
WINK
WINSTON
WINTHROP
WISEGUY
WITCH
WIZARD
WIZKID
WOLFGANG
WONDERDOG
WONTON
WOODSTOCK
WOODWIND
WOODY
WOOF
WOOKIE
WOOLY MAMMOTH
WRANGLER
WRIGLEY


--petrix.com

[euqinimod]

The List -X

XANADU
XANTHUS
XAVIER
XENA
XEROX
XERXES


The List - Y

YABBA-DABBA-DOO
YAHOO
YAMASEE
YANKEE
YAYA
YEAGER
YODA
YOGI BEAR
YORGY
YOSEMITE
YOU TOO
YO-YO
YUKON
YULE
YUMA
YUMMY


The List -Z

ZACK
ZAIRE
ZEBU
ZEKE
ZELDA
ZELIG
ZEPELLIN
ZEPHYR
ZEPPO
ZERO
ZEUS
ZIGGY
ZIPPITY DO DA
ZODIAC
ZOE
ZOMBIE
ZOOEY
ZOOM ZOOM
ZOPPICO
ZORRO
ZSA ZSA
ZULU
ZUNI


-petrix.com

[euqinimod]

Dog whispering

When talking about dog training, the hottest and latest thing is dog whispering. We are not talking about just "whispering" and talking softly to your dog, but taking it another step further.

Dog whispering looks deeply into your communication with your dog - understanding its actions and behavior. It is not a traditional way of training, as it relies on intuition and different techniques, and therefore many established trainers do not see it as a training method.




Dog whispering techniques


A very strong element which dog whispering is based upon is body language. As the dog is a social creature, it notices and follows body language. And as a trainer, you must know and learn your dog's body language. It can help you understand your dog, and approach it the right way. Observing, understanding and absorbing are very important keys to improving communication with your dog. Respecting and understanding it will diminish any feelings of intimidation or threat.
Dog whispering can be looked at as a humanistic way to understand and reach out to your dog. It has no elements of commands or obedience. This training technique is based on trust and good relations, making it very natural for the dog to follow its trainer. Having a strong connection can do wonders in dog training, emphasizing the fact that there is no need for "harsh" behavior.

Some of the main aspects of this type of training include:
Establishing your role as leader: This is vital if you want to make the dog whispering method work for you and can only work well if you can make your dog feel safe and secure in many different social situations and interactions, but only if you have established your dominance as pack leader.
Don't Shout: Whatever dog training method you use, shouting at your dog should never be part of it and actually reflects more on the owner's lack of self-control. The one exception to this rule would be if your dog was in imminent danger - only shout on such an occasion, and you can be sure of a response when it is most needed.
Using Body Language: By this I mean your body language and your dog's. Your body language can give a very clear message to your dog which is why you need to remain calm, but firm when training your dog. If you exhibit nervous, or fearful body language, your dog will interpret this as there being a reason to be nervous or fearful.
Using Signals: Dogs use a number of signals and gestures to indicate their intentions, defuse situations and send messages of "no threat". They do also try to give us signals but if we don't recognize them, we won't understand what our dog is trying to communicate to us.
Eye-to-Eye Contact: This is one of the best forms of communication between you and your dog and establishing regular eye contact with your dog is one of the first steps to reading each other's facial expressions. On the other hand, avoid direct eye contact when meeting a new dog as this can be read by the dog as confrontational.


--http://easy-world.net

[euqinimod]

Dogs destructive chewing

The performance of chewing seems to be a question of individual preference between dogs: some have an instinct desire to chew as a pleasurable pursuit in itself, and others seem to have no need to chew whatsoever except they are driven to it out of sheer boredom. The phenomenon “destructive chewing” might sound disused, as – by its very nature! – all chewing is destructive. Your dog has powerful jaws full of sharp, spiky teeth: just about anything she starts to chew on is probably soon going to show the effects of it. So only to clarify, when I use the phrase “destructive chewing”, I’m referring to inappropriate chewing: the kind of chewing that is focused on your own belongings and household items, instead of on your dog’s own designated toys and chews.



How to handle dog aggression





A dog is an instinctively aggressive creature. In the wild, aggression came in very handy: dogs needed aggression to hunt, to defend themselves from other creatures, and to defend resources such as food, a place to sleep, and a mate.
Selective breeding over the centuries has minimized and refined this trait significantly, but there’s just no getting around it: dogs are physically capable of inflicting serious harm (just look at those teeth!) because that’s how they’ve survived and evolved. And Mother Nature is pretty wily – it’s hard to counteract the power of instinct!
But that doesn’t mean that we, as dog lovers and owners, are entirely helpless when it comes to handling our dogs. There’s a lot that we can do to prevent aggression from rearing its ugly head in the first place – and even if prevention hasn’t been possible (for whatever reason), there are still steps that we can take to recognize and deal with it efficiently.
- Different aggression types -
There are several different types of canine aggression. The two most common ones are:
- Aggression towards strangers
- Aggression towards family members
You may be wondering why we’re bothering categorizing this stuff: after all, aggression is aggression, and we want to turf it out NOW, not waste time with the details – right? Well … not quite. These two different types of aggression stem from very different causes, and require different types of treatment.
- Aggression towards strangers -
What is it? It’s pretty easy to tell when a dog’s nervy around strange people. He’s jumpy and on the alert: either he can’t sit still and is constantly fidgeting, leaping at the smallest sound, and pacing around barking and whining; or he’s veeeery still indeed, sitting rock-steady in one place, staring hard at the object of his suspicions (a visitor, the mailman, someone approaching him on the street while he’s tied up outside a store.)
Why does it happen? There’s one major reason why a dog doesn’t like strange people: he’s never had the chance to get used to them. Remember, your dog relies 100% on you to broaden his horizons for him: without being taken on lots of outings to see the world and realize for himself, through consistent and positive experiences, that the unknown doesn’t necessarily equal bad news for him, how can he realistically be expected to relax in an unfamiliar situation? What can I do about it? The process of accustoming your dog to the world and all the strange people (and animals) that it contains is called socialization.
This is an incredibly important aspect of your dog’s upbringing: in fact, it’s pretty hard to overemphasize just how important it is. Socializing your dog means exposing him from a young age (generally speaking, as soon as he’s had his vaccinations) to a wide variety of new experiences, new people, and new animals. How does socialization prevent stranger aggression? When you socialize your dog, you’re getting him to learn through experience that new sights and sounds are fun, not scary. It’s not enough to expose an adult dog to a crowd of unfamiliar people and tell him to “Settle down, Roxy, it’s OK” – he has to learn that it’s OK for himself. And he needs to do it from puppyhood for the lesson to sink in.
The more types of people and animals he meets (babies, toddlers, teenagers, old people, men, women, people wearing uniforms, people wearing motorcycle helmets, people carrying umbrellas, etc) in a fun and relaxed context, the more at ease and happy – and safe around strangers - he’ll be in general. How can I socialize my dog so that he doesn’t develop a fear of strangers? Socializing your dog is pretty easy to do – it’s more of a general effort than a specific training regimen. First of all, you should take him to puppy preschool. This is a generic term for a series of easy group-training classes for puppies (often performed at the vet clinic, which has the additional benefit of teaching your dog positive associations with the vet!).
In a puppy preschool class, about ten or so puppy owners get together with a qualified trainer (often there’ll be at least two trainers present – the more there are, the better, since it means you get more one-on-one time with a professional) and start teaching their puppies the basic obedience commands: sit, stay, and so on. Even though the obedience work is very helpful and is a great way to start your puppy on the road to being a trustworthy adult dog, really the best part of puppy preschool is the play sessions: several times throughout the class, the puppies are encouraged to run around off-leash and play amongst themselves. This is an ideal environment for them to learn good social skills: there’s a whole bunch of unfamiliar dogs present (which teaches them how to interact with strange dogs), there’s a whole bunch of unfamiliar people present (which teaches them that new faces are nothing to be afraid of), and the environment is safe and controlled (there’s at least one certified trainer present to make sure that things don’t get out of hand).
Socialization doesn’t just stop with puppy preschool, though. It’s an ongoing effort throughout the life of your puppy and dog: he needs to be taken to a whole bunch of new places and environments. Remember not to overwhelm him: start off slow, and build up his tolerance gradually.
- Aggression towards family members -
There are two common reasons why a dog is aggressive towards members of his own human family: - He’s trying to defend something he thinks of as his from a perceived threat (you). This is known as resource guarding, and though it may sound innocuous, there’s actually a lot more going on here than your dog simply trying to keep his kibble to himself. - He’s not comfortable with the treatment/handling he’s getting from you or other members of the family.
What’s resource guarding? Resource guarding is pretty common among dogs. The term refers to overly-possessive behavior on behalf of your dog: for instance, snarling at you if you approach him when he’s eating, or giving you “the eye” (a flinty-eyed, direct stare) if you reach your hand out to take a toy away from him. All dogs can be possessive from time to time – it’s in their natures. Sometimes they’re possessive over things with no conceivable value: inedible trash, balled up pieces of paper or tissue, old socks. More frequently, however, resource-guarding becomes an issue over items with a very real and understandable value: food and toys.
Why does it happen? It all boils down to the issue of dominance. Let me take a moment to explain this concept: dogs are pack animals. This means that they’re used to a very structured environment: in a dog-pack, each individual animal is ranked in a hierarchy of position and power (or “dominance”) in relation to every other animal. Each animal is aware of the rank of every other animal, which means he knows specifically how to act in any given situation (whether to back down, whether to push the issue, whether to muscle in or not on somebody else’s turf, etc etc).
To your dog, the family environment is no different to the dog-pack environment. Your dog has ranked each member of the family, and has his own perception of where he ranks in that environment as well. This is where it gets interesting: if your dog perceives himself as higher up on the social totem-pole than other family members, he’s going to get cheeky. If he’s really got an overinflated sense of his own importance, he’ll start to act aggressively. Why? Because dominance and aggression are the exclusive rights of a superior-ranked animal. No underdog would ever show aggression or act dominantly to a higher-ranked animal (the consequences would be dire, and he knows it!) Resource guarding is a classic example of dominant behavior: only a higher-ranked dog (a “dominant” dog) would act aggressively in defence of resources. To put it plainly: if it was clear to your dog that he is not, in fact, the leader of the family, he’d never even dream of trying to prevent you from taking his food or toys – because a lower-ranking dog (him) will always go along with what the higher-ranking dogs (you and your family) say.
So what can I do about it? The best treatment for dominant, aggressive behavior is consistent, frequent obedience work, which will underline your authority over your dog. Just two fifteen-minute sessions a day will make it perfectly clear to your dog that you’re the boss, and that it pays to do what you say. You can make this fact clear to him by rewarding him (with treats and lavish praise) for obeying a command, and isolating him (putting him in “time-out”, either outside the house or in a room by himself) for misbehaviour.
- If you’re not entirely confident doing this yourself, you may wish to consider enlisting the assistance of a qualified dog-trainer.
- Brush up on your understanding of canine psychology and communication, so that you understand what he’s trying to say
– this will help you to nip any dominant behaviors in the bud, and to communicate your own authority more effectively
- Train regularly: keep obedience sessions short and productive (no more than fifteen minutes – maybe two or three of these per day).
Why doesn’t my dog like to be handled? All dogs have different handling thresholds. Some dogs like lots of cuddles, and are perfectly content to be hugged, kissed, and have arms slung over their shoulders (this is the ultimate “I’m the boss” gesture to a dog, which is why a lot of them won’t tolerate it.) Others – usually the ones not accustomed to a great deal of physical contact from a very young age – aren’t comfortable with too much full-body contact and will get nervy and agitated if someone persists in trying to hug them.
Another common cause of handling-induced aggression is a bad grooming experience: nail-clipping and bathing are the two common culprits. When you clip a dog’s nails, it’s very easy to “quick” him – that is, cut the blood vessel that runs inside the nail. This is extremely painful to a dog, and is a sure-fire way to cause a long-lasting aversion to those clippers. Being washed is something that a great many dogs have difficulty dealing with – a lot of owners, when confronted with a wild-eyed, half-washed, upset dog, feel that in order to complete the wash they have to forcibly restrain him. This only adds to the dog’s sense of panic, and reinforces his impression of a wash as something to be avoided at all costs – if necessary, to defend himself from it with a display of teeth and hackles.
Can I “retrain” him to enjoy being handled and groomed? In a word: yes. It’s a lot easier if you start from a young age – handle your puppy a lot, get him used to being touched and rubbed all over. Young dogs generally enjoy being handled – it’s only older ones who haven’t had a lot of physical contact throughout their lives that sometimes find physical affection difficult to accept. Practice picking up his paws and touching them with the clipper; practice taking him into the bath (or outside, under the faucet – whatever works for you, but warm water is much more pleasant for a dog than a freezing spray of ice-water!), and augment the process throughout with lots of praise and the occasional small treat.
For an older dog that may already have had several unpleasant handling/grooming experiences, things are a little more difficult. You need to undo the damage already caused by those bad experiences, which you can do by taking things very slowly – with an emphasis on keeping your dog calm. The instant he starts to show signs of stress, stop immediately and let him relax. Try to make the whole thing into a game: give him lots of praise, pats, and treats. Take things slowly. Don’t push it too far: if you get nervous, stop. Dogs show aggression for a reason: they’re warning you to back off, or else! If your dog just can’t seem to accept being groomed, no matter how much practice you put in, it’s best to hand the job over to the professionals.
Your vet will clip his nails for you (make sure you tell him first that he gets aggressive when the clippers come out, so your vet can take the necessary precautions!). As far as washing and brushing goes, the dog-grooming business is a flourishing industry: for a small fee, you can get your dog washed, clipped, brushed, and whatever else you require by experienced professionals (again, make sure you tell them about your dog’s reaction to the experience first!)
For more information on handling aggressive and dominant behaviors, as well as a great deal of detailed information on a host of other common dog behavior problems, check out SitStayFetch. It’s a complete owner’s guide to owning, rearing, and training your dog, and it deals with all aspects of dog ownership. To get the inside word on preventing and dealing with problem behaviors like aggression and dominance in your dog, SitStayFetch is well worth a look.


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Dogs separation anxiety

Separation Anxiety is one of the most common problems that dogs develop. It’s an anxiety disorder, and is defined as a state of intense panic brought on by the dog’s isolation/separation from her owner(s). In other words: when you leave for work in the morning, your dog is plunged into a state of nervous anxiety which intensifies extremely quickly.
Dogs are social animals – they need plenty of company and social interaction to keep them happy and content. No dog likes to be left alone for long stretches of time, but some dogs do a lot worse than others: these are the ones most prone to separation anxiety.




Dogs separation anxiety


There are a number of contributing causes to the condition:
- Some breeds are genetically predisposed towards anxiety and insecurity, which is something you should consider when deciding which breed you’re going to go for (particularly if you’re going to be absent for long stretches of time). A few of these breeds include Weimaraners, Springer Spaniels, German Shepherds, and Airedales
- A significant proportion of dogs from shelters develop separation anxiety. Most of these ‘shelter dogs’ have undergone significant trauma in their lives – they’ve been abandoned by their previous owners
– and thus they have little trust that their new-found owner (you) isn’t going to pull the same trick.
- Dogs that were separated from their mothers and siblings too early have been identified as being especially prone to separation anxiety. Puppies from pet-stores are a perfect example of this: they’re usually taken from their mothers well before the earliest possible age (which is 8 weeks), and confined to a small glass box in the petstore for anywhere between a few weeks to two months. This early weaning, coupled with the lack of exercise and affection while in the petstore, is psychologically traumatic for the dog.
- Neglect is the number-one cause of separation anxiety for dogs. If you’re absent much more than you’re present in your dog’s life, separation anxiety is pretty much inevitable. Your dog needs your company, affection, and attention in order to be happy and content.
The symptoms of separation anxiety are pretty distinctive: your dog will usually learn to tell when you’re about to leave (she’ll hear keys jingling, will see you putting on your outdoor clothes, etc) and will become anxious. She may follow you from room to room, whining, trembling, and crying. Some dogs even become aggressive, in an attempt to stop their owners from leaving. When you’ve left, the anxious behavior will rapidly worsen and usually will peak within half an hour. She may bark incessantly, scratch and dig at windows and doors (an attempt to escape from confinement and reunite herself with you), chew inappropriate items, even urinate and defecate inside the house. In extreme cases, she might self-mutilate by licking or chewing her skin until it’s raw, or pulling out fur; or will engage in obsessive-compulsive behaviors, like spinning and tail-chasing.
Upon your return, she’ll be excessively excited, and will leap around you in a frenzy of delight for a protracted period of time (more than the 30 seconds to one minute of a happy, well-balanced dog.) This extended greeting is a source of some misunderstanding: without realizing that such a greeting actually signifies the presence of a psychological disorder, some owners actually encourage their dog to get more and more worked up upon their return (by fuelling the dog’s excitement, encouraging her to leap around, paying her protracted attention, and so on.) If you’re behaving in this way with your dog, please stop. I know it’s tempting and very easy to do, and it seems harmless – after all, she’s so happy to see you, what harm can it do to return her attention and affection in equal measure? - but in actuality, you’re just validating her belief that your return is the high point of the day. So she’s as happy as Larry when you return – but, when it’s time for you to leave again, her now-exaggerated happiness at your presence is under threat, and she gets even more unhappy when you walk out that door.
Fortunately, there are things you can do to minimize your dog’s tendency towards anxiety. Here’s a short list of do’s and don’ts: Do:
- Exercise the heck out of her. Really wear her out: the longer you expect to be away, the more exercise she should get before you leave. For example, if you’re leaving for work in the morning, she’ll probably be by herself for at least four hours; and, if you’ve got a dog-walker to take her out mid-day instead of coming back yourself, she won’t see you – the person she really cares about - for at least nine hours. So she needs a good, vigorous walk (fifteen to twenty minutes is the absolute minimum here!) before you walk out that door. More is even better.
- Distract her from her boredom, loneliness, and anxiety by giving her an attractive alternative to pining, pacing, and whining. All dogs love to chew – why not play on this predisposition? Get a couple of marrowbones from the butcher, bake them in the oven for 20 minutes (so they go nice and hard and crunchy – and so she can’t smear marrow all over your furniture), slice them up into chunks of a few inches long, and give her one about 15 minutes before you leave. It’ll keep her happy and occupied, and will act as a smokescreen for your departure.
- When you leave, put the radio on to a soothing station: classical music is ideal, but any station featuring lots of talk shows is also ideal. Keep the volume quite low, and it’ll calm her down a bit and give her the feeling that she’s got company.
- If at all possible, supply her with a view: if she can see the world going by, that’s the next best thing to being out and about in it.
- Acclimatize her to your leaving. Taking things nice and slowly, practice getting ready to go: jingle your keys about, put on your coat, and open the door. Then – without leaving! – sit back down and don’t go anywhere. Do this until she’s not reacting any more. When there’s no reaction, give her a treat and lavish praise for being so brave. Next, practice actually walking out the door (and returning immediately), again doing this until there’s no reaction. Gradually work up – gradually being the operative word here! – until you’re able to leave the house with no signs of stress from her. Do not: - Act overtly sympathetic when she’s crying. Although it sounds very cold-hearted, trying to soothe and comfort your dog by patting her and cooing over her is actually one of the worst things you can do: it’s essentially validating her concern. Make sure she can’t tell that you feel sorry for her: don’t ever say, “It’s OK, good girl” when she’s upset!
If you’re interested in getting a more detailed look at how to deal with your dog’s separation anxiety, you might like to check out Secrets to Dog Training. It’s a great learning tool for anyone who wants to learn how to deal constructively with their dog’s problem behaviors. All of the common behavioral problems are dealt with in detail, and there’s a great section on obedience commands and tricks too.






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5 Dog Training Myths

Your Dog Needs You to Shred -
Without Using Tooth or Claw
By Daniel Stevens

From KingdomOfPets: Secrets to Dog Training – How to Stop Your Dog’s
Behavior Problems… For Good!

Fellow Dog Owners and Enthusiasts,

It is with great pleasure and pride I find myself representing a superb
opportunity to assist yet another dog owner in their quest for a healthy,
happy, and willingly obedient companion.

I'm happy to say that since its inception, the Secrets to Dog Training guide
to dog obedience training has been used by over 60,000 dog owners to
solve their dog behavior troubles - or prevent them from occurring from
the start!

Many of their success stories are included on our website with photo
testimonials (http://www.kingdomofpets.com/dogobediencetraining/testimonials.php).
These clients represent a wide mix of dog owners, from those who are
house training a new puppy, struggling with common problems such as
excessive barking, destructive chewing, or possessive aggression, to those
treating a severe case of separation anxiety or struggling with an adult
dog that is simply on a crash course toward "out of control."

Over the years our team has grown into respected network of dog trainers,
behaviorists, and veterinarians who work under the Kingdom of Pets name.
We all share the same commitment to solving your problems so that you
can get the most out of your relationship with your companion!

Dog owners from all corners of life can benefit from a systematic training
program based on sound methods (my own dogs are walking proof) and
that's what we're all about providing anyone with a dog they truly care
about...

So now that I've answered the question, "WHY should I listen to you?" - it's
time to get on with WHAT I've got to say... time to get into the meat of the
matter.

"I recommend Secrets to Dog Training to everyone who has a dog as a companion. I
have learned so much about dog behaviors and how to respond accordingly without
yelling or intimidating. Thanks Dan for writing such a great learning tool!"
- Susan Caruso (USA)

Now, I know it's a constant challenge separating the fact from the fluff
when it comes to dog obedience, one that gets even trickier when you
have more than one source offering you conflicting information, even if
they mean well.

And the fact of the matter is that most people want the maximum impact
for the least amount of effort. I don't blame them - after all, you just want
to be a responsible dog owner, not a professional dog trainer!

In the dog training field you see a lot of half-truths and a fair share of total
myths. And when it comes to myth-making and myth-breaking, I've found
that it's quite common to have dog trainers insult your intelligence and
waste your time.

I mean, everyone knows that you don't house train a dog by rubbing their
face in their own mess. Everyone knows you don't teach a reluctant dog
to swim with a firm shove into the swimming pool. And we all know you
CAN teach an old dog new tricks (yes, your old dog is often smart enough
to make you think otherwise).

So I'd like to offer you some of the most important and most persistent
myths that have shaped my own experience with clients. All of these
questions grow out of common dog obedience problems - none of them
have easy answers.

I'll be following each one with additional guidelines from full Secrets to
Dog Training program, so you can see firsthand what our course is all
about...


Myth #1 - You're only training your dog when you THINK you're
training your dog.

WRONG:
Let me explain. Many owners set aside and plan out dog obedience
training sessions. They have a set time, gather their set tools (all manner of
treats, clickers, leads), and go to a set place (the backyard, the park, or
even the weekly dog training class).

This is great! These owners are doing much better than those who believe
that a daily pat on the head or a steady salvo of "SIT!" commands every
now and then amounts to a successful dog training regime.

But what many caring dog owners either don't realize or simply don't put
into practice is the fact that you are effectively training your dog
whenever you are with your dog.

Your dog is picking up on your verbal and non-verbal cues all of the time.

If you spring up and run to the phone every time it rings, you are training
your dog that it is ok to spring up and run around whenever he hears that
ringing sound.

Let's say you are relaxed at night when you get home from work, but
totally stressed out in the morning. You are basically training your dog that
there is a reason to be stressed out in the morning (not so good when you
are about to leave them alone for a while).

If you get nervous each time you pass by the neighbor who walks their

Great Dane on the other side of the street in the morning, you are training
your dog to be nervous if the Great Dane is in sight.

Remember, even when your signals are not directed at your dog, your
dog picks up on them. There is no line that separates formal and informal
training. You are training your dog even when you are not "training" your
dog. This is what I call "involuntary training." It just happens.

The important thing is to try to recognize moments when you can make
this involuntary training work for you.

Structured training is, of course, still an essential part of dog training, and
the form of involuntary training that I've just spelled out does not in any
way replace the need for such structure.

Here are what we regard to be the key concepts to successful training,
and a short description of each:

Bonding
Perhaps the most important aspect of building a successful relationship
with your dog will be your rapport with him. If you make your dog into a
close friend by doing such things as talking to him, playing with him, and
taking him for long walks, he will be much more responsive and attentive
when you are training him.
Spending QUALITY TIME with your dog is the key.

Consistency
Delivering consistent messages to your dog will help him to view his world
as black and white rather than various shades of grey. By consistent
messages, I mean the commands that you decide to use to train, praise,
and reprimand your dog should always be the same.
It is important that all members of the family are aware of this and use the
same commands themselves, as you would not want to undermine the
hard work that you have put in to training the dog by having other people
confusing him.

Timing
By timing I mean the amount of time that passes between your dog's
action (or inaction) and corresponding praise (or reprimand). This time
should be no more than two to three seconds. If the time is any longer, the
chances are your dog will not associate your words with his actions.
Do not fall into the trap of calling your dog to you to reprimand him. As
mentioned above, by the time he gets to you he has long forgotten what
he has done wrong and now thinks that you are telling him off for coming
to you! Always praise your dog when he comes to you.

Repetition
Dogs are creatures of habit and learn by repetition. It will take several
repetitive training sessions for your dog to get the response you require
implanted into his brain and for the action to become automatic.

Dogs require refresher sessions throughout their lives so that the
conditioned response that you want is not lost.
Remember prevention is far better than having to correct the action at a
later stage.

Session Length
Keep formal sessions short and enjoyable so that your dog maintains
concentration throughout. Quality not quantity is the golden rule.

Always finish a training session on a positive note.

Attitude
Be reasonable in your expectation of what your dog can achieve. It will
take time to get results.
You should ensure that you have the dog's full attention and that you are
giving your best when performing a training session. You may wish to settle
yourself or the dog down by taking a long walk before the session
commences.
"I love Secrets to Dog Training. I rescued two German Shepherds and I did not know anything
about dog obedience. One of my dogs was quite aggressive with other dogs, and crazy about
chasing cats and squirrels. What I like about your book is that you give insights into what the dog is
thinking, why they behave the way they do, and tips on what to do to correct the problem. I have
learned so much from your instructions, and my dogs are now following my commands and I am
able to control them. Thanks for the great book."
- Carla J. Johnson (Long Beach, California, USA)

Praise
Use praise whenever your dog has completed an exercise correctly.
Praise should also be delivered to your dog as soon as the desired act has
been done (remember the timing thing). When delivering praise look
directly into the dog's eyes so that he understands the connection
between your voice or touch and his action.

Deliver praise verbally or with the hand by either patting or stroking. Try not
to over praise your dog as excessive chatter will only serve to confuse him
and may disrupt his concentration for the rest of the training session.


Generally speaking, try not to rely too heavily on food as your only reward
or bribe. However, alternating treats with displays of affection can be a
useful way of overcoming problems that your dog may have in learning
some of the exercises.

Eye Contact
Using eye contact can be more effective than using the spoken word -
more so if there is a close bond between dog and owner.
If a dog wishes to communicate with you, he will look directly into your
eyes trying to read your intent. It is well known that dogs that do not make
good eye contact can be difficult to train.

Hand Signals
Using a specific hand motion while you give a vocal command can be
an effective way of training a dog to respond to different stimuli. And it is
useful for getting your dog to respond at long distances.
Eventually you can wean your dog off the vocal command so that he
responds to the hand signal alone. Give hand signals in front of and
above the dog's head as that is their best field of vision.

Voice Signals
Use one command for one action and pronounce that command with
the same tone and inflection.
Don't get carried away with the number of vocal commands you create.
You should gain your dog's attention by saying his name before stating a
command.

Corrections
The importance of the trainer being seen as the pack leader in the dog's
eyes is imperative. In a pack situation if a dog steps out of line it is
chastised and made aware of its transgression immediately by superior
dogs in the pecking order.
Giving Corrections is a big topic with a lot of methods to consider. There
are three failsafe options with our top recommendation outlined in more
detail in the complete Secrets to Dog Training book.

Myth #2 - You need to understand and communicate in "dog
language" so that your dog will understand you.

WRONG.

This is a notion that I find to be increasing in circulation these days, and a
myth worthy of a good swift debunking.

True it is of the utmost importance to be able to "read" the body language
of a dog. You need to understand when whining means "I missed you"
and when it means "I have severely injured my tail." You need to know
when barking means "I am bored and acting out" and when it means

"Excuse me there is an ax murderer behind you."

But this stops way short of responding to your dog using what might be
thought of as "their" language. You don't need to bark, growl, or whine
when you want to connect with your dog on a deeper level. You don't
need to get on all fours and mimic the play stance when you want to play
a game with your dog (put it this way: you won't see them pick up and
throw a Frisbee).

This is nonsense. Dogs are intelligent animals. They know you don't look like
a dog, you definitely don't smell like a dog, and so there is absolutely no
reason why you need to act like one.

Not only that, it makes you look ridiculous - both in the eyes of other
people, and in the eyes of your dog.

Yes, you can still be a human and be a pack leader. In fact, your upright
and elevated (human) posture has the added effect of reinforcing your
dominance.

With this silly myth laid to rest, allow me to offer you a selection of items
that will help you get a handle on how dog's communicate using body
language and facial expressions, which is taken from the "Guide to Body
Language and Signals" and the "Guide to Facial Expressions and Vocals,"
both included in the Secrets to Dog Training book:

Use of the Body to Communicate:

Backside in the air and tail wagging: This means that your dog is keen to
play and have some fun, so it's time to get his favorite toy and spend
some time giving your dog the play and exercise he needs.

Tail right between the back legs: This indicates that your dog is scared of
something or someone. If he is slinking around with his tail like this, you
should try and work out what is affecting him.

Wagging tail: A wagging tail can mean a number of things from
playfulness and happiness to excitement or aggression. If the tail is
wagging loosely, he is probably feeling friendly and happy. However, it his
tail is high up and wagging rapidly, it could mean aggression. If the tail is
relaxed and still, your dog feels contented.

Raised hackles: This means that your dog is either frightened of something
or that he is ready to go into battle with whatever or whoever has caused
the hackles to be raised.

Rolling over: This is normally a sign of submission and may occur in the
presence of humans or in the company of other dogs or animals.

Sniffing: This can occur for one of a number of reasons. Your dog may sniff
because he smells something unusual - something he is unfamiliar with -
and he may be trying to work out what it is. He may sniff to identify a
person or other animal, as dogs use their noses rather than their eyes to
differentiate. He may sniff to find out more about a new person or dog. In
addition, if he is sniffing the floor, fence, or lamppost outside he may have
caught on to the scent of another dog that has marked the territory. If
your dog is sniffing the floor in the house and is also pacing or circling, he
may need to relieve himself so you should get him to his designated area.

Tense posture: If your dog's body is tense and slightly lowered, this
indicates anxiety. This may be coupled with a partially lowered tail.

Crouching: A tense body coupled with a crouching position usually
means that your dog is ready to pounce, and is what is known as a
predatory position. He might react like this with anything from his favorite
squeaky toy to a squirrel or an intruder.

Prancing: If you notice that your dog is prancing back and forth,
bouncing around with his tail wagging, he is usually feeling happy. He
may be happy and playful or he may just be happy and excited because
you have just come home from work.

These are just a selection of the body postures and actions your dog may
display to convey the way that he is feeling. Making yourself familiar with
these actions will help you to identify and bond with your dog more
closely.

Use of the Head and Face for Communication:

Ears. The ears can tell you a lot about how your dog is feeling.
Here are some common ways in which your dog will convey his feelings
using his ears:

• Ears close to the head, pointing back or forwards could
indicate aggression.

• Perked up ears, with his head turning from side to side
indicates that he is alert.

• Slightly flattened and partially back ears indicate that he feels
anxious.

• Ears perked up and pointing forward means that he is curious
or excited. However, this can also be coupled with a
predatory position, in which case he may be just about to
start the chase.

• Ears pointing straight up may display a degree of dominance.

• Ears flattened and laid back against head usually indicate
fear.

Eyes. The eyes are also a giveaway of how your dog is feeling, and
coupled with his posture, can enable you to work out what your dog is
thinking and what he is trying to say:
• Narrowed eyes can indicate aggression and challenging
behavior.
• Slightly narrowed eyes coupled with partially back ears can
indicate anxiety.
• Wide open and staring eyes are often coupled with a
dominant posture and ears up straight to convey his
dominance.
• Eyes narrowed with lots of white showing indicates that he is
afraid or submissive.
• Wide open, sparkly eyes usually means that he is ready for a
game and some playful fun.
• Wide open eyes that are intently focused on something are
part of the predatory position.


Mouth. Your dog will also use his mouth as part of his communication, and
here is what to look out for:
• Lips drawn back to expose teeth, coupled with snarling,
indicates aggression. This could also be coupled with
snapping.
• Mouth closed or slightly open can indicate alertness or
dominance, depending on his posture.
• A slightly open mouth that makes him look as though he is
grinning can actually indicate anxiety.
• An open mouth coupled with panting can indicate
excitement and curiosity.
• Mouth open to expose teeth with drawn back lips can
indicate fear.
• A relaxed mouth that is slightly open is normally a friendly and
relaxed gesture.
• A slightly open mouth with bared teeth may indicate that
your dog is on guard.
• An open mouth coupled with excited panting can indicate
playfulness and eagerness.

Myth #3 - The "Dog whispering" method is superior because it is the
most gentle and humane.

WRONG.

I've found that there's a lot of confusion and misdirected advice
surrounding this topic. "Dog whispering" is a training method, or more
accurately, it is a training philosophy that incorporates a lot of different
methods and techniques. It has gained a lot of popularity through a
television show, called The Dog Whisperer, featuring Cesar Millan.

Dog whispering IS humane. But the belief that dog whispering is the best
way to train your dog because it is the most "gentle" is not quite right.

Much of the effectiveness of the method depends on establishing
dominance, and making your dog aware at all the right moments that
you are comfortably in charge and in control as pack leader.

Accomplishing this typically involves reminded your dog through firm,
physical gestures.

So yes, dog whispering methods ARE gentle compared to, say, hitting your
dog with a shovel, but they are actually more forceful (and effective)
than bribing your dog to do something by stuffing them full of hotdogs.

Even though you use physical force to establish dominance, you never
act in a way that is violent or aggressive or potentially harmful to the
animal. At the same time, dog whispering reminds us that dogs are not
children and they feel more secure with a clear idea of a pack leader
they can trust.

Here are some of the main points about the method:

Be the Leader. Establishing your role as pack leader is one of the most vital
parts of making this method work for you.
This will involve making the dog feel secure in many different social
situations and interactions (which cannot happen unless you have
established your dominance).

Submissive or anxious dogs run the risk of acting out with defensive
aggression. Alpha dogs run the risk of acting out with dominance
aggression – without proper guidance, they will always take the law into
their own jaws, so to speak. The key is to be calm yet firm.

Control your Voice. Never Shout. No dog training method is about
shouting at your dog. This is more a reflection of the owner's own lack of
self-control.
So while it is true that an attractive quality of dog whispering is a softspoken
and gentle demeanor, this is not its defining or most important
aspect.
In fact, much of the communication is done non-verbally – sometimes
with hand signals, sometimes without.

[The] training methods are positive and very proactive. Sumo, our pup, is doing great! At
only 5 months old he sits, lies down, heals, stays, and even comes most of the time. …
Secrets to Dog Training continues to provide support through email which we feel is a
priceless resource."
- Wayne & Sumo (USA)

Like other training methods, dog whispering requires patient, nonviolent
means, lots of repetition, and positive reinforcement.
There are moments when your dog may be in imminent danger. You
should reserve shouting for these moments. This way, you can expect a
response when you most need one.

Read (and Use) Body Language. I always say that one half of dog
whispering is about reading your dog's body language. The other half is
about your body language being read by your dog. This is why your calm
yet firm actions speak volumes to them, as we've already established.
Again, if your energy is nervous, or even fearful, it's as good as saying to
your dog: "You have reason to be nervous. You have reason to be fearful."
Remember, dog communication is primarily non-verbal (while that of
humans is primarily verbal).

Signals. Dogs can use a variety of gestures and signals to defuse situations
of stress and send a message of "no threat." Dogs also try to signal to us,
but if we don't recognize them, we can miss the point.

Some of the most common of these signals include: turning their head
away from yours (no the dog's not being rude), licking their lips and nose,
walking slowly, "freezing" on the spot, sniffing the ground, and even
nervous yawning. These signals can be observed frequently between
dogs and from dogs to humans.

The failure of humans to recognize these signs often makes dogs resort to
more extreme forms of expression, such as barking, when they are
distressed. Some dogs use some signs and not others. It is also possible for
a dog to lose this body language to an extent if it never reinforced,
especially during early conditioning.

Understanding and reading your dog's body language is important not
only for when they are trying to tell you something, but also when they are
trying to send a message to another dog in your presence.

An ability to prevent dog fights is almost guaranteed when you can read
how dogs react during or just before greeting. It makes timing your
intervention or deciding to avoid the situation entirely second nature to
you.

Eye contact. Eye contact is one of the best ways to communicate with
your dog. It is said that some dogs talk more with their bark, and other talk
more with their eyes. In either case, the first step in reading each other's
facial expressions is regularly establishing eye contact.

But remember that holding a direct stare without any other verbal or
physical cues is likely to be read as confrontational. Avoid direct eye
contact when meeting new dogs.

No Hocus-Pocus. Dog whispering does not involve hypnosis or magic.
Whenever you see anyone who has "a way" with dogs, it often comes
down to a mix of high affection, low fear, and steady confidence.

Dog whispering is simply about putting that into practice in the best
possible manner.

Establish your Dog's Purpose. Dogs are not servants or slaves and should
not be treated as such. If you continually bark commands at them, don't
be surprised when they bark back.

Sadly I've seen that many dog owners become "control freaks" and act in
a bossy, demanding way. The same owners tend to be the ones who get
extra angry when their dog doesn't listen or misbehaves. Be a pack leader,
not a control freak.


Dogs are not children and should not be treated as such. This is another
commonly misguided idea of the relationship between humans and dogs.

Many dog owners pamper their dogs as if they were surrogate children.
This is harmless, and even funny, but only to a point!

Dogs need more than your treats and your cuddles. They need your
guidance. Sometimes you need to physically intervene or make a
correction with your dog.

The use of calm, assertive, non-violent, and non-aggressive physical force
is not only ok with your dog, but it is essential in maintaining a healthy and
secure relationship.

Dogs are social. Give them a social role. Whether they are a running or
walking partner, a show dog, an agility dog, a herding dog, a watch dog,
or a party dog, dogs are happier when they have a role and they feel like
they are fulfilling it. Give them the security that comes from a sense of
purpose.

Afford Respect and dignity. If you treat dogs with the respect and dignity
they deserve, they will enjoy behaving for you. Simple as that.
For the same reason, a dog whispering philosophy puts more value in "life
knowledge" for dogs than it does teaching them neat tricks. For example,
when people ask me if my dog knows how to "shake hands" or "roll over," I
tell them no, but add that he does know a great trick that I call "don't run
in front of the bus."

Customize your approach. Dog whispering works as well as it does
because it can take a different approach for different dogs. It is always a
"custom fit" method. This is because a dominant dog will require a much
different training approach than a submissive one, as will an aggressive
dog vs. an anxious or obsessive one.

Exercise. Dogs need more exercise than you think. Even though this is the
cornerstone of all dog training systems (or at least should be), I need to
mention it again as absolutely essential as part of any dog whispering
approach.

If your dog does not have a way to channel all the energy that they has
for work and play, they will find another way to release it. And chances
are it won't be a good thing.

Myth #4 - A dog that chews things is either terribly bored or simply
trying to be vindictive.

WRONG.

This is one of the most common problems when it comes to dogs and
undesirable behavior. But it's also not as straightforward as many dog
owners think.

Humans play solitaire to keep themselves occupied when they're alone.
Dogs chew. It's what they do.

Actually, chewing is much more important to dogs than solitaire is to
humans. Dogs need to chew on things to maintain healthy teeth and
gums and good jaw strength. Solitaire will do nothing for your dental
hygiene.

Puppies need to chew even more when they are teething (in fact, there
are special chew toys that can be dampened and frozen to provide relief
for painful gums during this process).

So chewing isn't a problem in itself, but destructive chewing is.

Dogs need to learn what they can and cannot chew on, and they are
quite capable of doing so when properly taught. Here are four steps
every dog owner should take to encourage "constructive chewing."

1. Prevent. As always, the best cure is prevention, but dog owners should
also always dog-proof their home, especially with puppies. They can be
very creative with what they chew.
Anything not removable that has been or is likely to be targeted can be
sprayed with a deterrent, such as Bitter Apple.
2. Interrupt. Whenever you are there with your dog, it is important that you
actively teach them commands for "leave it" or "drop." These are given
whenever you see them taking something into their jaws that should not
be in there.
You may have to orchestrate this training process by adding some of the
items that you removed in step 1. But that's what training is all about -
setting up safe scenarios in which you can help them differentiate
between appropriate and inappropriate behavior.
These commands will also work well when you are out with your dog and
they want to pick up something dangerous or just foul.
3. Redirect. Here's where you start teaching your friend which toys belong
to them, to chew to pieces if they like (and they will).

Immediately after removing the inappropriate item from their clutches,
replace it with an appropriate toy.
It will take some time to really zero in on a few of your dog's most favorite
things. But as you try lots of different toys to encourage constructive
chewing, keep in mind that the best ones are those designed to promote
healthy teeth and gums such as dental chew ropes.
Also, try to find what are called "active toys," which give your dog
something to do for an extended period of time. For example, "Kong" balls
and rubber toys can be stuffed with food, such as peanut butter or
whatever they go for. Often dogs are inactive when they are alone
because they're missing you.
I can honestly recommend your book to anyone contemplating getting a dog. It
contains lots of basic advice - essential for the beginner - as well as more advanced
material for the experienced dog owner. I have read all sorts of books on dog keeping
and training over the 40 odd years I have been keeping German Shepherds but none
have been as sensible, useful or comprehensive as Secrets to Dog Training.
If you want to use our photo on your website please feel free to do so. All the best."

- George Barrett (USA)

4. Praise. The final step is simple but not one to forget. And you already
know how best to praise your dog.
Good news. All in all the good news is that most dogs will grow out of this
phase somewhat at the same time as they figure out what's chewable
and what's not.
If your dog's chewing problem continues, however, it is likely to be an
expression of nervous energy (the same goes for excessive licking, of
themselves and others). The number one cause of nervous energy for
dogs is lack of exercise.

A brisk 15-minute walk is simply not enough for many dogs, barely a warmup
for a Border Collie, and it is important to understand that exercise is
different from a play session or outing to the park.
The mistake that a lot of dog owners make, which is an unfortunate
function of their busy schedules, is that they pack in two high intensity (15-
20 minute) fetch sessions at the beginning and end of the day.
True, this is much better than nothing, but the fact that the dog goes more
or less from sleeping to sprinting, then from lying around all day to sprinting
again, can cause extra wear and tear on the joints and possibly early
arthritis.
Like humans, a dog benefits from a decent warm-up and warm-down,
and busy owners should do their best to sneak in some longer, less intense
exercise sessions.
All the best with it, and don't chew out your dog in the meantime!

Myth #5 - A crate is basically a dog cage that is like a prison for your
dog.

WRONG.

Above all, dog owners need to realize that "CONFINEMENT" doesn’t mean
the same thing to you as it does to your dog.
Their very own crate is the one place a dog can go where they know they
don't have to DO anything, such as protect or alert or even keep you
company. In the crate, they really don't have to make any decisions at
all... and for them, that's a HUGE relief.
Crate training is an effective method used by many dog owners to house
train any dog as well as keep them safe from the potential dangers
around the house.
Your dog should be actively encouraged to think of his crate as a safe
area – somewhere that he can go to get some rest or some peace and
quiet.
Make the crate as comfortable as possible for your dog, putting in some
toys and soft bedding to put him at ease.
The full regime of crate training is outlined in the Secrets to Dog Training
book, but here are some of the best opportunities to make use of crate
training, followed by some important things to remember about this
method.

Keeping Your Dog out of Mischief
It is not always possible to keep an eye on your dog. For example, if you
are cooking or on the phone, your puppy could get up to all sorts of
mischief, and he could put himself in danger.
This is a good time to put him in his crate, where he can have a rest, play
with his toys, and generally chill out while you get on with what you have
to do.
You can also use the crate if you have to go out for short periods of time,
although this should only be when your puppy is totally used to the crate
and enjoys being in it.

You should confine him to the crate for short periods while you are
actually in the house before trying it when you go out. Without doing this,
you will not know what your puppy's reaction is to being confined for a
period of time.

House Training a Puppy
A puppy is unlikely to soil his own rest and play area, so the crate is a
good way to teach him to hold it in until you take him to the designated
area to do his business.
This will teach him control of his bodily functions and reinforce the fact
that he should only do his business in the designated place.
Be careful not to let your puppy go for too long in the crate, as he may
need to go to the bathroom and if he is not let out will be able to do little
else but go in the crate.
Once this has happened, you could find that he starts to do this more and
more and it may become a hard habit to break.
"I knew there was a problem when I realised that my puppy was treating me like she was
the boss! With Sit Stay Fetch I was able to turn this around in a couple of weeks- no more
tantrums, no biting, growling and carrying on- for the both of us! Thanks Daniel, your book
is 100% dog friendly and the results are impressive indeed. Pip and I are now a great
team."
- Colin Madigan (South Yarra, Australia)

Things to Remember About Crate Training:
Don't force it: Never try and rush crate training, otherwise you will make
things more difficult for you and your pet. It can take your dog a while to
get used to it, and you should be patient and understanding with him.
Monitor the time: The crate is not meant to be a place where your dog
spends all of his time. It is not a substitute for responsible dog care or your
warm companionship.

Having a dog is pointless if you are going to put him in a crate all day
while you work, all evening while you have dinner and get the house
tidied, and all night while you sleep. The crate should be used as and
when you need it, not as a permanent measure to keep the dog from
under your feet.
Careful with puppies: When you are using the crate for your puppy,
remember that she will need to relieve herself quite often. You should let
her out and take her to her designated area around once hourly to avoid
accidents inside the crate.
No collars: Make sure that you take his collar off before you put him in the
crate, otherwise you may cause a choking hazard.
Make it comfortable: Your dog should see the crate as a safe area – a
place of their own. Therefore, aim to make it as comfortable as possible,
with toys, blankets, and anything else that will make the dog feel more at
home. In addition, remember your dog always needs access to fresh
water so make sure that this is provided.
Do not use it as punishment: Your dog should never be sent to her crate as
a form of punishment. Similarly, you should make sure that she cannot be
harassed by anyone while she is in her crate. Remember you want her
crate to seem like her safe haven.
Do not use a second-hand one: You will have a much better chance of
getting your dog to successfully use a crate if it is brand new. A secondhand
crate will carry the residual smell of its previous occupier, which your
dog will probably not like.


Yours sincerely,
Daniel Stevens


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-easy-world.net